Kanjut Sar

Kanjut Sar (Urdu: کنجت سر), or Kunjudh Sar as pronounced in Wakhi, is a mountain located between Shimshal Valley, and Hisper valley part of the Karakoram mountain range. The name Kunjudh Sar in Wakhi means "that which overlooks Kunjudh", or "above Kunjudh", while Khujudh is the Wakhi name for Central Hunza. It is the 28th-highest mountain in the world. According to many residents of Shimshal, Kanjut Sar is the name of the adjacent peak Yukshin Gardan Sar, and vice versa. In Shimshal village, the original namings are widely accepted and used, as opposed to what is recognised internationally.

Kanjut Sar کنجت سر
Yukshin Gardan Sar (background left) and Kanjut Sar (background centre)
Highest point
Elevation	7,760 m (25,460 ft)[1] Ranked 28th
Prominence	1,660 m (5,450 ft)[1]
Listing	Ultra
Coordinates	36°12′18″N 75°25′06″E / 36.20500°N 75.41833°E / 36.20500; 75.41833[1]
Geography
Kanjut Sar کنجت سر Location in Gilgit-Baltistan Show map of Pakistan Kanjut Sar کنجت سر Kanjut Sar کنجت سر (Gilgit Baltistan) Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
45km 30miles Pakistan 45 42 41 38 35 33 31 28 26 25 24 19 18 15 13 12 11 10 8 7    The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height. Legend： 1：K2,  2：Gasherbrum I, K5,  3：Broad Peak,  4：Gasherbrum II, K4,  5：Gasherbrum III, K3a,  6：Gasherbrum IV, K3,  7：Distaghil Sar,  8：Kunyang Chhish,  9：Masherbrum, K1,  10：Batura Sar, Batura I,  11：Rakaposhi,  12：Batura II,  13：Kanjut Sar,  14：Saltoro Kangri, K10,  15：Batura III,  16： Saser Kangri I, K22,  17：Chogolisa,  18：Shispare,  19：Trivor Sar,  20：Skyang Kangri,  21：Mamostong Kangri, K35,  22：Saser Kangri II,  23：Saser Kangri III,  24：Pumari Chhish,  25：Passu Sar,  26：Yukshin Gardan Sar,  27：Teram Kangri I,  28：Malubiting,  29：K12,  30：Sia Kangri,  31：Momhil Sar,  32：Skil Brum,  33：Haramosh Peak,  34：Ghent Kangri,  35：Ultar Sar,  36：Rimo massif,  37：Sherpi Kangri,  38：Yazghil Dome South,  39：Baltoro Kangri,  40：Crown Peak,  41：Baintha Brakk,  42：Yutmaru Sar,  43：K6,  44：Muztagh Tower,  45：Diran,  46：Apsarasas Kangri I,  47：Rimo III,  48：Gasherbrum V   Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Location	Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent range	Hispar Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent	1959 by Camillo Pellissier
Easiest route	snow/ice climb

Kanjut Sar consists of two peaks:

• Kanjut Sar I at 7,760 metres (25,459 ft).
• Kanjut Sar II, to the southeast of I, at 6,831 m (22,411 ft).

Kanjut Sar I was first climbed in 1959 by Camillo Pellissier, member of an Italian expedition directed by Guido Monzino. Between 4 and 6 August 1981, seven Japanese climbers of the same expedition climbed to the top.^[2] In 2010, a Russian–American expedition attempted to climb on the Eastern Ridge of Kanjut Sar and reached 7450 m, but turned back in bad weather.^{[citation needed]}

The first ascent of Kanjut Sar II was achieved by a Swiss team in 1985.^[3] Expedition leader Toni Spirig, Ueli Stahel and Richie Ott finally carried it out in alpine style after several attempts . The climbers reached the summit on July 10.^[4] The ascent route led over the north-west side.

On July 29, 1990, a Dutch expedition made the second ascent of Kanjut Sar II in alpine style via the south face.^[5] Expedition members were Peter Kok, Frank Schmidt, Franck van den Barselaer, Hendrik Freie and Pieter de Kam.