Jersey (fabric)

Jersey fabric originated in the Channel Islands, particularly on the island of Jersey, where it was traditionally used for underwear and sweaters for fishermen. This versatile fabric has historical roots dating back to the Middle Ages, when Jersey was a significant exporter of knitted goods.^[1] Today, jersey fabric is prized for its lightweight and stretchy qualities and is often made from materials like rayon or viscose, which provide a soft texture and excellent drape.^[2] Many modern versions of jersey fabric incorporate Lycra, spandex, or elastane to enhance stretchability.^[3]

Jersey fabric was originally woven from wool, but it has since evolved to include cotton and synthetic blends, with common ratios being 50/50 or 60/40. These blends affect the fabric's durability and comfort, making it widely used in clothing items such as T-shirts and underwear. Although it is an ideal base layer material, jersey fabric lacks the insulation and durability of some other textiles.^[4] The name "Jersey" likely has roots in English and Old Norse, meaning "island," which reflects its geographic and historical origins.^[5]

A common material for jersey fabric, varies by sheep breed. Finer wool, such as merino, is preferred for premium apparel, while coarser wool is used for carpets and heavy clothing.

The wool processing steps include scouring, which cleans the wool by removing dirt, grease, and sweat; carding, which untangles and smooths the wool into consistent strands; gilling, which aligns the fibers and removes impurities; and combing, which eliminates shorter fibers and vegetable matter, leaving only the long fibers for spinning. Drafting further thins the wool strands, preparing them for fine yarn production. Finally, spinning and twisting convert these strands into single yarns, often twisted together to create stronger, multi-ply yarns.^[6] Depending on the type of wool and the processing methods used, the resulting yarns can be tailored for various applications, including carpets, upholstery, and high-quality clothing.

Both woolen and worsted yarns can be woven into fabrics, with worsted yarn yielding finer and smoother products. Woolen yarns, on the other hand, are tufted into carpets by stitching loops into a backing fabric, which can either be cut or left intact, then sealed for added strength.

Over the years, jersey fabric has evolved from a simple woolen material used for practical clothing to a versatile fabric that holds a prominent place in both everyday and luxury fashion. The addition of synthetic fibers like nylon and polyester in the 20th century further enhanced jersey's stretch, moisture control, and durability.^[7] Today, modern jersey fabrics also include eco-friendly options made from organic and recycled materials.^[8]

Jersey is a knitting method that produces a unique and versatile material. This knitting technique involves creating a lightweight and stretchy fabric by interlocking yarns in a series of loops. The result is jersey fabric, which is particularly well-suited for a variety of comfortable garments such as T-shirts, dresses, and athletic wear.^[2]

Textile fibers can be broadly categorized into two main types: natural and synthetic. Natural fibers include plant-based materials, such as cotton and hemp, which are cherished for their comfort, breathability, and moisture-wicking properties. Animal-based fibers like wool and silk are also included in this category. Synthetic fibers are engineered and can be classified into two subcategories: regenerated fibers and purely synthetic fibers. Regenerated fibers, such as rayon and modal, are derived from natural materials like wood pulp but undergo chemical processing to create a new fiber. These fibers are celebrated for their ability to mimic the qualities of natural fibers while offering additional benefits, such as increased durability and a variety of textures.^[9] Purely synthetic fibers, such as polyester and nylon, are created from petrochemicals and are designed for specific properties like high durability, resistance to wrinkles, and moisture-wicking capabilities. These fibers are often utilized in activewear and other functional clothing due to their performance characteristics.

The softness and breathability of natural fibers make them ideal for casual wear, while the durability and moisture resistance of synthetic fibers make them more suitable for athletic and outdoor clothing. Additionally, the interplay between different fibers in blends can enhance specific qualities, leading to fabrics that combine the best of both types.^[10] The versatility of jersey fabric, combined with the diverse options in fiber selection, allows for a wide range of applications in the textile industry.

Jersey fabric is a versatile material created through a specific knitting technique, commonly used for various garments. The fabric can be a stretchy single-knit jersey, usually lightweight, with one flat side and one piled side, making it ideal for comfortable clothing like T-shirts.^[11] When made as a double-knit (or interlock jersey), jersey fabric has less stretch and is heavier, with two layers of single jerseys knit together to create a fabric with flat sides on the exterior and piles in the center.^[11] This type of knit is often used for polo shirts, especially those made from pima cotton, and is considered an elegant alternative to piqué.

Knitting techniques vary, with two primary styles being the English method and the Continental method. The English method, also known as "throwing," involves holding the yarn in the right hand, while the Continental method, where the yarn is held in the left hand, can facilitate faster knitting. In the UK, the English method is common, whereas the Continental approach is favored in Germany and Scandinavia, known for intricate patterns like Fair Isle and Norwegian knitting techniques. In North America, both methods are widely used.^[12]

Jersey fabrics can be classified as follows:

• Single jersey - Lightweight, stretchy fabric with one flat side and one piled side, often used for T-shirts.
• Double jersey - Heavier, less stretchy fabric with two flat sides.
• Interlock jersey - Double-knit fabric that is thicker and can serve as a formal alternative for polo shirts.
• Jacquard jersey - Jersey fabric featuring complex patterns created during the knitting process.
• Clocqué jersey - Textured, with a blistered or quilted appearance.
• Stretch jersey - Jersey blended with elastane or spandex for enhanced stretch, commonly used in activewear and form-fitting garments.

In 2023, the global market for knitted fabrics is valued at approximately $27.99 billion, with projections indicating an annual growth rate of 5.1%, potentially reaching $46.03 billion by 2033. This growth is largely driven by the expanding apparel sector, which is expected to significantly influence the fabric market over the next decade. Additionally, the increasing application of knitted fabrics in various industries, including healthcare, manufacturing, construction, and automotive, is anticipated to further stimulate market growth.

Within the textile sector, the coated fabrics industry is also experiencing expansion. Coated fabrics undergo treatments that enhance their functionality, strength, and aesthetic appeal, making them valuable across several fields, including automotive, construction, healthcare, and fashion. The growth of this market is fueled by technological advancements, changing consumer preferences, and a rising demand for versatile, high-quality materials.

Historically, the incorporation of jersey into women's fashion can be traced back to Coco Chanel, who was the first to utilize this fabric in outerwear designs. During World War I, Chanel relocated from Paris to Deauville, where fabric shortages prompted her to open a new shop. She discovered that jersey, traditionally used for underwear, was not only affordable but also incredibly comfortable. Inspired by fishermen's sweaters, Chanel introduced jersey to women's fashion, although it was initially met with mixed reactions. Nevertheless, some of her customers quickly recognized the comfort and style that jersey offered, marking a significant breakthrough in her career.

Another prominent figure in the world of fashion is Madame Gres, born Germaine Emilie Krebs. A renowned couture designer, she initially trained as a sculptor and opened her fashion house, "Gres," in Paris in 1942. Known for her elegant gowns and critical perspective on ready-to-wear fashion—which she famously labeled "prostitution"—Madame Gres eventually launched her own ready-to-wear line. Active from the 1930s until the 1980s, many of her iconic gowns were made from jersey fabric. Her sculptural training greatly influenced her distinctive draping techniques, elevating her designs to an art form.

In recognition of her contributions to fashion, the Musée Bourdelle hosted an exhibition dedicated to Madame Gres, showcasing 80 of her designs, including works from her "Alix" period and collaborations with Givenchy. The exhibition featured 100 sketches and 50 original photographs of her creations, deeply moving observers with her exceptional talent and artistry. Through her innovative use of jersey and sculptural approach, both Chanel and Madame Gres left an indelible mark on the fashion industry, shaping the way jersey is perceived and utilized today.

Recent technological advancements have greatly influenced innovations in jersey fabric creation, particularly through smart textiles and wearable technology. Modern jersey fabrics can now incorporate sensors, heating elements, and LED lights, allowing them to interact with external stimuli. Additionally, digital printing technology enables designers to produce vibrant patterns and intricate designs on jersey fabric without sacrificing comfort. This has led to the inclusion of jersey knit in high-end fashion, featuring prominently in luxury items such as evening gowns, tailored blazers, and jumpsuits. The fabric’s inherent stretch and drape provide both elegance and comfort, making it appealing to designers who prioritize style and ease of movement.

Jersey fabric has been introduced in the Middle Ages on the Channel Islands. Where it got its name. Initially, it was viewed as suitable only for men’s clothing, mostly utilized in making men's fishermen's sweaters and underwear. A key shift in the fabric's trajectory happened in 1916 when Coco Chanel brought jersey into women’s fashion. By designing comfortable dresses and coats from Jersey. Chanel made Jersey useful for more than just traditional uses.

Jersey is different from woven fabrics because it is knitted, necessitating different handling during production. This knitting method makes jersey prized soft texture and stretchiness, allowing it to flow beautifully. While tricot was also used for T-shirts and dresses, jersey's thicker quality makes it particularly well-suited for garments such as pants, skirts, blazers, and coats. A grey jersey suit adorned with knitted stripes was once highly admired, although the specific fabric used was rare and expensive, making it difficult to replicate. Today, jersey fabric can be costly and harder to source on the market.

Further experimentation with jersey has led to innovations like casual pants with a more formal cut, capitalizing on the fabric's inherent stretch, which enhances comfort. Interestingly, when jersey is boiled, it shrinks significantly and adopts a rougher texture, making it ideal for outerwear like coats.

Jersey is a weft knit fabric that is knitted on a single set of needles with all loops meshing in the same direction.^[13] By and large, it is knitted in plain stitch.^[14] It is also called plain.^[13] On the other hand, the double jersey is knit using two sets of needles, does not curl at the edges (when cut) and has a more stable structure.^[14]

• Balbriggan (cloth)
• Kersey (cloth)