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Anna Wintour Costume Center

The Anna Wintour Costume Center is a wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art main building in Manhattan that houses the collection of the Costume Institute, a curatorial department of the museum focused on fashion and costume design. The center is named after Anna Wintour, the longtime editor-in-chief of Vogue, Chief Content Officer[2] of Condé Nast, and chair of the museum's annual Met Gala (often called the "Met Ball")[3] since 1995. It was endowed by Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch.[4] As of August 2017, the chief curator is Andrew Bolton.[5]

Anna Wintour Costume Center
Savage Beauty Exhibition, 2011
Anna Wintour Costume Center is located in New York City
Anna Wintour Costume Center
Location within New York City
Established2014
Location1000 5th Avenue, Manhattan, New York City
10028
Coordinates40°46′48″N 73°57′44″W / 40.78000°N 73.96222°W / 40.78000; -73.96222
DirectorAndrew Bolton[1]
Public transit accessSubway: ​​ to 86th Street
Bus: M1, M2, M3, M4, M79, M86
WebsiteOfficial website

The center was formally opened by the First Lady of the United States Michelle Obama on May 5, 2014.[6] Guests included Sarah Jessica Parker, Diane Von Furstenberg, Tory Burch, Zac Posen, Ralph Lauren, and Donatella Versace.[7][8][9][10]

History

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Robe à la française 1740s, as seen in one of the exhibits at the Costume Institute

In 1902, wealthy philanthropists Irene and Alice Lewisohn began to volunteer at the Henry Street Settlement House in New York, a community center that provided social services and healthcare to immigrant families.[11] Alice, who acted in plays herself, began working as a drama teacher, while Irene devoted herself to dance productions. In 1914, the sisters bought a lot on the corner of Grand and Pitt Streets and donated it to the Settlement for building a new theater. The Neighborhood Playhouse opened in 1915. By 1920, the theater employed professional actors, and it was known for its experimental productions and its revue "The Grand Street Follies."[12] Theater designer Aline Bernstein served her apprenticeship there from 1915 to 1924 designing costumes and stage sets.

The Playhouse closed in 1927, but the company continued to produce plays on Broadway under the management of Helen F. Ingersoll. In 1928, with Rita Wallach Morganthau, the Lewisohns established the Neighborhood Playhouse School of the Theatre at East 54th Street, where it became an actor training school and students were offered a two-year program formal drama and dance training to become professionals.[12]

During their years of running the school theatre and producing plays, a body of knowledge was formed about acting, theater production, and costume, set and stage design. In 1937, Irene Lewisohn opened a home for this library, the Museum of Costume Art, on Fifth Avenue. Aline Bernstein served as the first President and Polaire Weissman as its first executive director.[13] After Irene Lewisohn's death in 1944, Lord & Taylor president Dorothy Shaver worked to bring the collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Shaver believed that this would strengthen the American fashion industry and raised $350,000 from New York garment manufacturers to finance the transaction.[14] The Costume Art museum became part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1946, becoming The Costume Institute but was independently run until 1959 when it became a curatorial department in the museum.[15] The Met is now home to the Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference Library.

Since 1946, with help from the fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert, the institute has hosted the annual Met Gala to raise money for operating expenses.[16]

In 2009, the American Costume Collection of the Brooklyn Museum was transferred to the Costume Institute, as The Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The high costs of maintaining and displaying the collection was the main impetus for the move, which followed years of close collaboration between the two organizations. The collection of the Brooklyn museum is older, having been formed from private donations by former New York high society personalities, beginning with the donation in 1903 of an 1892 cream colored crepe dress worn by Kate Mallory Williams at her graduation from Brooklyn Heights Seminary.[16] Prior to the move, 23,500 objects from the Brooklyn collection were digitized and these images are now shared by both organizations.[17] At the time of the acquisition, the Met costume collection consisted of 31,000 objects from the 17th-century onwards.[17] The opening exhibition in 2014 featured work by British-born designer Charles James, an important figure in New York fashion of the 1940s and 1950s and whose work is in the Brooklyn collection.[6]

On September 8, 2015, it was announced that Harold Koda would be stepping down from his position as Curator in Charge of the Costume Institute. Andrew Bolton, who had joined the Costume Institute in 2002 as associate curator and was made curator in 2006, was announced as his replacement.[1]

In May 2017, the Costume Institute featured an exhibition featuring the works of Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons. The exhibit was the Costume Institute's first exhibition focusing on a living designer since Yves Saint Laurent in 1983.[18]

List of exhibitions

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References

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  1. ^ a b "Harold Koda to Step Down After Leading Met Museum's Costume Institute for 15 Years; Andrew Bolton to Become Curator In Charge of the Department". The Met. September 8, 2015. Archived from the original on March 15, 2017. Retrieved January 29, 2019.
  2. ^ Lee, Edmund (2020-12-15). "Condé Nast Puts Anna Wintour in Charge of Magazines Worldwide". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2023-04-20.
  3. ^ Marriott, Hannah; Gilbert, Sarah (May 2, 2017). "Met Gala 2017: avant garde looks on the red carpet – in pictures". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Archived from the original on April 6, 2019. Retrieved January 29, 2019.
  4. ^ Karimzadeh, Marc (January 14, 2014). "Met Names Costume Institute Complex in Honor of Anna Wintour". WWD. Archived from the original on January 16, 2014. Retrieved January 15, 2014.
  5. ^ Trebay, Guy (April 29, 2015). "At the Met, Andrew Bolton Is the Storyteller in Chief". New York Times. Archived from the original on October 2, 2015. Retrieved August 13, 2015.
  6. ^ a b Karimzadeh, Marc (May 5, 2014). "Michelle Obama Cuts the Ribbon at Anna Wintour Costume Center". WWD. Archived from the original on May 8, 2014. Retrieved May 7, 2014.
  7. ^ "Michelle Obama to open Anna Wintour's Met costume center". Usatoday.com. April 30, 2014. Archived from the original on December 14, 2021. Retrieved May 6, 2014.
  8. ^ "First lady of fashion Anna Wintour gets teary as First Lady Michelle Obama honors her at the Met". NY Daily News. March 17, 2006. Archived from the original on May 5, 2014. Retrieved May 6, 2014.
  9. ^ Tiffany Yannetta (May 5, 2014). "Inside the Anna Wintour Costume Center's Charles James Exhibit - Afternoon at the Museum - Racked NY". Ny.racked.com. Archived from the original on December 14, 2021. Retrieved May 6, 2014.
  10. ^ "Michelle Obama Cuts the Ribbon for New Anna Wintour Costume Center". The Wall Street Journal. Speakeasy (blog). April 17, 2012. Archived from the original on May 6, 2014. Retrieved May 6, 2014.
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  12. ^ a b "Neighborhood Playhouse Records". New York Public Library Archives & Manuscripts. Archived from the original on January 30, 2019. Retrieved January 29, 2019.
  13. ^ "Costume Institute Records, 1937-2008" (PDF). Metropolitan Museum of Art Archives. Archived (PDF) from the original on May 25, 2018. Retrieved January 29, 2019.
  14. ^ Stuart, Amanda Mackenzie (2012). Empress of Fashion, A Life of Diana Vreeland. Harper Collins. p. 248.
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  16. ^ a b Brooklyn Museum's Costume Treasures Going to the Met Archived December 9, 2017, at the Wayback Machine, New York Times article in December 2008
  17. ^ a b Collection of the Brooklyn Museum costumes Archived April 30, 2014, at the Wayback Machine on Artstor
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  19. ^ Cavallo, Adolph S (October 1971). Stoddart, Katherine (ed.). "Fashion Plate: An Opening Exhibition for the New Costume Institute" (PDF). The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. 30 (1): 45–48. doi:10.2307/3258574. JSTOR 3258574. Archived (PDF) from the original on April 7, 2013. Retrieved May 23, 2014. To salute the fashion industry of New York, whose tireless efforts and financial contributions were instrumental in making the new Costume Institute a reality, the Museum will present Fashion Plate in the Costume Institute in the fall of 1971...Fashion Plate will be the first of these gallery installations – the inaugural exhibition.
  20. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t u v w x y z aa ab ac ad ae af ag ah ai aj "Museum Exhibitions 1870–2012" (PDF). Metropolitan Museum of Art. Archived (PDF) from the original on December 9, 2017. Retrieved May 24, 2014.
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  35. ^ Morris, Bernadine (December 10, 1985). "A Celebration of Royal India's Fashions". The New York Times. Archived from the original on May 27, 2014. Retrieved May 26, 2014.
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  41. ^ "EVENING HOURS; The Ladies in Red". The New York Times. December 12, 1993. Archived from the original on May 28, 2014. Retrieved May 26, 2014.
  42. ^ Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress. Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1994. ISBN 0870997335. Archived from the original on January 20, 2021. Retrieved September 30, 2016.
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