Edward Sexton
Edward Sexton | |
|---|---|
 Sexton in 2016 | |
| Born | 9 November 1942 Dagenham, Essex, England |
| Died | 23 July 2023 (aged 80) |
| Education | English Martyrs School |
| Occupation(s) | Tailor, fashion designer |
| Labels | |
Edward Sexton (9 November 1942 – 23 July 2023) was a British Savile Row tailor, fashion designer and manufacturing consultant.[1] Sexton was called a key player in the history of Savile Row.[2]
Early life
[edit]Edward Sexton went to English Martyrs School (in Southwark) from 1953 to 1957. Leaving school, Sexton went to work at Lew Rose (in 1957), a suit manufacturing factory in East London, where he received his initial training. Lew Rose operated a section production system; Sexton progressed around each section developing basic tailoring skills.
In 1959, Sexton went to work as an apprentice for Jerry Vanderstine, a coat maker who worked for Harry Hall (specialist equestrian tailor on Regent Street, London). In 1959, John Oates, the head cutter at Harry Hall, then asked Sexton to come and work as an assistant cutter and trimmer.
In 1961, Sexton worked at Cyril A. Castle, a celebrity tailor, as an assistant jacket-cutter and trouser-cutter. While working at Cyril A. Castle, Sexton got his first position of responsibility on the cutting board and put himself through a pattern cutting course at Barrett Street Technical College[3] (later to become part of the London College of Fashion).
In 1962, Sexton moved to Kilgour French and Stanbury,[4] where he finished his training.
In 1966, Sexton got his first job as a fully-fledged cutter at (military tailor) Welsh and Jefferies,[5] where he honed his skills cutting both military and civilian tailoring. Sexton made trips to Royal Military Academy Sandhurst to make uniforms for officers passing. Sexton believed this experience proved invaluable to the work he would later produce.
Nutters of Savile Row
[edit]In 1967, Sexton went to work as a cutter for Donaldson, Williams and Ward, where he met the young salesman Tommy Nutter. Nutter quickly recognised Sexton's talent and they started working together for private clients. Through this work they began to develop a style (a waisted and flared jacket with wide lapels and parallel trousers) which was to evolve over the years. Nutter was very handsome and always impeccably dressed, and quickly drew clients from his social circle, which was growing in size and influence.[citation needed]
On 14 February 1969, Edward Sexton and Tommy Nutter opened Nutters of Savile Row at No. 35a Savile Row,[6] with the backing of Cilla Black, Bobby Willis, James Vallance White and Peter Brown.[7] This was the first new Savile Row establishment in 120 years. Nutter was the creative force and front of house focus, while Sexton was a traditional bespoke master cutter who created the garments.[8] It has been said that "Sexton was the genius behind Nutters."[2]
In 1976, Tommy left Nutters of Savile Row[citation needed] and Sexton became managing director.[9]
Sexton remained managing director[4] until 1982, when he moved from 35a to 36–37 Savile Row and opened a shop in his own name.
Leaving Savile Row
[edit]In 1990, Sexton left Savile Row to set up in Knightsbridge,[10] alongside couturiers Caroline Charles[11][failed verification] and Bruce Oldfield[12][failed verification]. Sexton continued to operate, by appointment only, from a studio on Beauchamp Place, producing bespoke tailoring for both men and women. Bespoke shirts and an exclusive selection of accessories for his customers offer a complete Sexton 'look'.
Consultancy and collaborations
[edit]Wilkes Bashford
[edit]From 1987, Sexton produced a collaborative range for Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco.[13]
Poor Little Rich Girl
[edit]Sexton made the costumes for the $12million NBC production of Poor Little Rich Girl: The Barbara Hutton Story. Sexton dressed many of the characters in the film, including James Read as Cary Grant, Anthony Peck, and Farrah Fawcett.[14][15]
Saks Fifth Avenue ready to wear
[edit]In September 1988, Sexton created an exclusive line for Saks Fifth Avenue of made to measure suits and ready to wear tailoring: shirts, ties, socks, canes, hats, pocket squares and ascots.[16][full citation needed]
Stella McCartney and Chloé
[edit]In 1995, while studying at Central St. Martins, Stella McCartney served an apprenticeship with Sexton,[17][full citation needed] who was her father's tailor. Sexton helped McCartney develop her graduate show that was modelled by Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Yasmin Le Bon.[citation needed] The show made front-page news, and the entire collection was sold to Tokio, a London boutique.
In 1997, when McCartney took over from Karl Lagerfeld at Chloé, as creative director she "relied on"[18][full citation needed] Sexton to create her first Paris collection. Sexton worked for Chloé as a consultant and continued tutoring McCartney in cutting, design, fabric selection and tailoring. In 1999, Sexton refused to renew his contract with Chloé.[citation needed]
Petra Ecclestone Form Clothing
[edit]In 2007, Bernie Ecclestone showed Sexton designs by his 18-year-old daughter Petra. Sexton was impressed, and he started working with Petra to develop her label, Form, though the company closed the following year.[19]
Death
[edit]Edward Sexton died on 23 July 2023, at the age of 80.[1][20]
Famous outfits
[edit]Notable clients included:
| Client | Profession | Most notable clothes made by Edward Sexton |
|---|---|---|
| Annie Lennox[21] | Musician | Suit worn in "Full Steam" video |
| Bernie Ecclestone[22][full citation needed] | Business magnate | Three piece suits |
| Bianca Jagger[5][full citation needed] | Model | Iconic White Suit |
| David Gray[23][full citation needed] | Musician | Suit worn in "Full Steam" video |
| Marie Helvin[24][full citation needed] | Model | |
| Mark Ronson[25] | Musician | White wedding suit |
| Paul McCartney[26] | Musician | Suit worn on Abbey Road album cover |
| Ringo Starr[26] | Musician | Suit worn on Abbey Road album cover |
| Twiggy[5] | Model | Cherry red velvet suit |
| Yoko Ono[5] | Artist | White jump suit |
| Harry Styles[5] | Singer | Pink tour suit |
| Adam Lambert[5] | Singer | Velvet Album suits |
References
[edit]- ^ a b Mohammed, Samantha Conti,Hikmat; Conti, Samantha; Mohammed, Hikmat (26 July 2023). "Savile Row Tailor Edward Sexton Dies at 80". WWD. Retrieved 26 July 2023.
{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - ^ a b "Savile Row Documentary". Video. BBC. Archived from the original on 17 February 2011. Retrieved 29 June 2011.
- ^ "Edward Sexton: Return of the wizard with the scissors". Savile Row Style. 26 April 2022.
- ^ a b Kerr, Susan (March 1998). "Pattern of Success". Millionaire. Archived from the original on 26 April 2012. Retrieved 29 June 2011.
- ^ a b c d e f Ford, James Sherwood ; with photography by Guy Hills ; foreword by Tom (2010). Savile Row : the master tailors of British bespoke. London: Thames & Hudson. pp. 216–220. ISBN 978-0-500-51524-2.
{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: multiple names: authors list (link) - ^ "An Historical Occasion, Nutter's Open Their Doors – and Cilla meets the Row". Tailor and Cutter. 21 February 1969. Archived from the original on 20 March 2012. Retrieved 30 June 2011.
- ^ "Fashion and Textile Museum". Ftmlondon.org. 31 January 2011. Archived from the original on 14 April 2012. Retrieved 11 February 2011.
- ^ Sherwood, James (2007), The London Cut: Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring, Marsilio, Italy, ISBN 978-88-317-9155-7
- ^ Iain, Finlayston (July–August 1978). "The world Meets at Nutters". Tatler. Archived from the original on 30 September 2011. Retrieved 29 June 2011.
- ^ Sherwood, James (30 April 2007). "Sexton Appeal". The Independent.
- ^ "Caroline Charles Website". Company website. Archived from the original on 26 April 2012. Retrieved 23 November 2011.
- ^ "Bruce Oldfield Website". Company Website. Retrieved 23 November 2011.
- ^ La Ferla, Ruth (5 April 1987). "Men's Style; Tailored for Success". The New York Times.
- ^ Castrone, Linda (19 May 1987). "Edward Sexton Tailors Americans to his Taste". Chicago Tribune. Retrieved 26 June 2019.
- ^ Goodwin, Betty (15 May 1987). "Savile Row Tailor Re-Creates Cary Grant Look in Miniseries About Heiress". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 26 June 2019.
- ^ Daily News Record, 23 June 1988
- ^ Reader's Digest, January 1999
- ^ Daily Express, 2 October 1997
- ^ Slater, Lyndia (9 October 2009). "Driving Force: Petra Ecclestone". Evening Standard. Archived from the original on 28 December 2011. Retrieved 7 July 2011.
- ^ "Edward Sexton, master tailor who dressed Swinging London's rock stars and co-founded Nutter's of Savile Row – obituary". The Telegraph. 26 July 2023. Retrieved 27 July 2023.
- ^ Drew, William (30 March 2010). "Women of The Cloth". The Times. Archived from the original on 26 April 2012. Retrieved 23 November 2011.
- ^ Harries, Rhiannon (26 October 2010). "How we met". The Independent.
- ^ Brooke, Simon (30 January 2010). "Rock and Row". Financial Times.
- ^ Jardine, Cassandra (3 October 2007). "I Know I'm too thin. It's the adrinaline...". The Daily Telegraph.
- ^ Benjamin, Laura (19 September 2011). "The Happiness Clear To See". Hello. Archived from the original on 22 May 2012. Retrieved 23 November 2011.
- ^ a b "'The wizard with the scissors' dressed Beatles on Abbey Road cover". The Sydney Morning Herald. 1 August 2023. Retrieved 7 August 2023.
