Letterkenny is the largest town in County Donegal, with a population of 22,500 in 2022. It's a workaday place, frankly not scenic, but with lots of accommodation and other visitor amenities. It's the county transport hub and a good base for exploring the rest of Donegal, especially the north coast.

Glaciers carved out deep valleys around the coast of Donegal, which flooded to become fjords during the post-glacial rise of the sea. The largest were Lough Foyle (now by Derry city) and at Lough Swilly by Letterkenny, with Inishowen peninsula between. Their deep sea channels assisted transport of people and goods in an era when overland roads were muddy tracks in fair weather and morasses at other times. The Vikings (who enjoyed sailing into fjords) are the first documented outsiders, but there were many others including the Celts / Gaels to give Donegal its name Dún na nGall, fort of the foreigners.

The Irish ousted the Vikings but from the 12th century came under attack by the Normans. Those incursions never got far in northwest Ireland, so it was only from the 16th century that the English Tudors could resume their land-grab. Stiff resistance from the chieftains of Tyrconnell (Donegal) and Tyrone was only broken in 1603 by the Nine Years' War; the chieftains fled to Europe and their land was seized for "plantation" by English and Scottish colonists, laying the seeds for the partition of Ireland. The local tracts were granted in 1611 to Patrick Crawford from Scotland: he and his successors developed a town north of the River Foyle, eclipsing the original Irish settlement on the south bank.

In Irish Leitir means a hillside littered with stones, and Letterkenny is the stony hillside of the O'Cannon tribe. Until the 17th century it was a seaport, but vessels grew larger while the Swilly estuary silted up. The harbour at Ballyraine stayed in business into the 19th century, importing salt and grain, while Donegal's people drained out - some to North America, but a large contingent went to Glasgow. The last act of the 1798 rebellion of United Irishmen was played out here: the main uprising in County Wexford was already crushed when the French invasion forces arrived, too little too late. The French landing in County Mayo caught the government off-guard and they campaigned almost unopposed for 11 days before being encircled. The final sortie brought the rebellion's leader Theobald Wolfe Tone into Lough Swilly, but they were captured by the Royal Navy. Wolfe Tone was brought ashore at Letterkenny, carted off to Dublin for trial, sentenced to hang but committed suicide in prison.

The 1921 partition of Ireland bore especially hard upon the northwest, as towns such as Lettekenny lost their traditional links to both Dublin and Belfast. The manufacturing economy has always been small, though a service sector has grown and made the town into the largest in the county. Revival came with the Good Friday Agreement of 1998, which enshrined an open border and end to hostilities, so you can hop on a bus in Derry and come here with no border checks. As elsewhere in Ulster, the big question is the long-term effect of Brexit on this.

• 54.949-7.7171 Letterkenny Tourist Information Centre, Neil T Blaney Rd, Ballyraine (at Port Bridge Roundabout as N14 enters town). Tu-Sa 9AM-1PM, 2-5PM. On the roundabout is "Polestar", a public sculpture that's supposed to commemorate the town's transport history. Mmm, maybe a boat's timbers, or the innards of a locomotive, or a tourist driver unsure of the correct roundabout exit through inability to navigate by the Pole Star? (updated Jun 2024)

The nearest airport is City of Derry (LDY ^IATA), with flights from London Stansted, Liverpool and Glasgow. You might also fly into one of the Belfast airports or Donegal Airport on the west coast, or even Dublin. They all have car hire.

By road from Belfast follow M2 / A6 to Derry then N13. From Dublin follow M3 / A3 to Cavan, A5 through Omagh to Strabane, then N14. From Sligo follow N15 via Donegal Town to Ballybofey then N13.

The nearest railway station is Derry, with hourly trains from Belfast, taking two hours via Antrim, Ballymena and Coleraine.

By bus Expressway 32 runs every couple of hours from Dublin Busáras, taking 4 hours via Dublin Airport, Ardee, Carrickmacross, Monaghan, Omagh, Newtonstewart, Strabane and Lifford, with the last bus starting at 11PM. An adult single might be €23. John McGinley Bus 932 shares this route.

From Belfast travel via Derry: Ulsterbus and Gallagher are the bus operators.

Expressway 64 runs every two hours from Derry to Letterkenny (30 min) and continues to Ballybofey, Donegal Town, Ballyshannon, Bundoran, Sligo, Charlestown, Knock airport and village, Claremorris, Ballyhaunis, Tuam and Galway. Bus Feda 964 shares this route.

McGonagle Bus 951 takes 40 min from Buncrana via Burnfoot, Bridgend and Burt; one bus a day starts from Carndonagh. It runs three times M-F and twice on Saturday.

Local Link Bus 271 runs from Burtonport (for Arranmore) taking 1 hr 40 min via Dungloe, Loughanure, Crolly, Dunlewey, Glenveagh (for National Park) and Churchill. There are three or four M-Sa.

Bus 953 runs from Moville on the Foyle coast, taking an hour via Muff and Bridgend, with three M-Sa and one on Sunday.

Bus 300 runs from Ballylar on the Fanad peninsula, taking 70 min via Kerrykeel, Rathmullen and Ramelton, with three Su-Th and five F Sa.

Letterkenny 54.954-7.7281 bus station is northeast side of town at the top of Port Road. Some local buses start from the nearby streets.

54°57′36″N 7°43′12″W

Map of Letterkenny

Walk around town, but you need wheels for outlying sights such as Newmills and Glenveagh.

Enterprise have a car hire base in Letterkenny (☏ +353 74 910 3202) but it's usually more convenient to hire from the airport. There's no bike hire shop.

By bus: Letterkenny is the hub for local buses around the north end of the county, but they're too sparse for sight-seeing. As well as those above, Local Link Bus 989 from Carrigans (on the south edge of Derry) orbits Letterkenny via the college and hospital, with three M-Th and five F Sa.

Taxis wait on Market St and by the bus station. Operators include Letterkenny Taxis (☏ +353 87 952 5124), Swilly Cabs (☏ +353 74 912 1666), Paddy's (☏ +353 86 874 2961) and Star Cabs (☏ +353 85 118 0600).

Fares are nationally regulated and taxis must use the meter. As of March 2021, fares M-Sa 8AM-8PM are €3.60 flagfall then €1.10-1.50 per km, 8PM-8AM, and Sunday €4.00 flagfall then €1.40-1.80 per km. In slow traffic or if asked to wait they charge by the minute, 40-50 cents. Fares are negotiable for longer out of town trips.

"There is a town called Letterkenny which hath a market every Friday and two fairs in the year with a fair Church and a bridge at the east end over the River Swilly" - survey of 1652-56

• Main Street (one way traffic south) is a mix of 19th century and modern low rise. Market Square is a little green space, with a statue commemorating its Hiring Fairs: bring any spare members of your family along and hope to hire them out for the season to local farmers. Especially your children: that's money in your pocket, fewer mouths to feed, and their education taken care of; it's just like Montessori only with cuffs to the earlugs instead of violin lessons.
• Town Park is a pleasant green area north end of High Road by the hospital.
• St Eunan's Cathedral (RC) on Castle St was built in the 1890s and is open daily 7AM-9PM. The Adoration Chapel adjacent within the Loretto Convent is also usually open similar hours.
• Cathedral Square outside has a tall Celtic Cross, erected in 2006.
• Conwal Parish Church (Church of Ireland) across the square is from 17th century, with an interesting interior and graveyard.
• County Museum, High Rd, ☏ +353 74 912 4613, info@donegalcoco.ie. M-F 10AM-4:30PM, Sa 1-4:30PM. Local history and exhibitions in the 19th-century Workhouse. Free. (updated Aug 2021)

• What's on? Listen to Highland Radio on 103.3 MHz or read Donegal News, Donegal Live or Donegal Daily.
• Walk: a footpath follows the north bank of the Swilly until you loop onto Ramelton Rd or return the same way.
• An Grianán Theatre, Port Road F92 RV1F (near bus station), ☏ +353 74 912 0777. This stages drama and music in a modern building with a 383-seat auditorium. (updated Aug 2021)
• Regional Cultural Centre behind the theatre has an auditorium, film theatre and exhibition space. There isn't a permanent art collection.
• Century Cinema, Paddy Harte Rd F92 DA02, ☏ +353 74 912 1976. Mainstream film releases. (updated Aug 2021)
• Aura Leisure Centre, O'Donnell Park (off R250 near GAA grounds), ☏ +353 74 910 6422. M-F 7AM-9PM, Sa 9AM-6PM, Su 9AM-4PM. Gym, fitness classes and swimming pool. You can sign up or pay as you go. (updated Aug 2021)
• Arena7 is a family entertainment complex on Ramelton Rd, R245 near the junction with the ring road. They have bowling lanes, laser arcades, party rooms, a bar and restaurant. They're open daily 2-9:30PM, so not a late spot, but their packages include passes for the town's nightclubs. So edgy and off-the-way is the Arena, it even caters for First Communion and Confirmation celebrations.
• Zoo: Tropical World at Hazelwood House near the golf course is open M-Sa 10AM-4:30PM, Su 1-4:30PM.
• Coral Island is a casino and amusement arcade on Ballyraine Retail Park, open daily 9AM-3AM.
• Gaelic games: Donegal GAA play football and hurling at Sean Mac Cumhaill Park in Ballybofey / Stranorlar.
• Golf: Letterkenny Golf Club is 3 km east of town on R245 at Barnhill. Blue tees 6428 yards, par 72, GUI members round €35, non-members €75.
• Go-karting: LK Activity Centre is 5 km north of town on R245 Ramelton road.
• Gartan Adventure Centre, Churchill F92 T853 (off R251), ☏ +353 74 913 7032. Outdoor education centre, with training and organised activities. Their base is on Lough Gartan towards Glebe House (see above) 20 km west of town, but activities are at various sites on land and off the coast. (updated Aug 2021)
• Donegal International Rally is an annual tarmac car rally, over 3 days in June, based in Letterkenny but touring the county.

• Letterkenny Shopping Centre is next to the bus station.
• The Courtyard is in Market Square.
• Forte Shopping Centre is opposite the Radisson on the link road.
• For local shopping and giftware look along Main St. There are several ATMs and banks along here.
• Farmers Market and the car-boot sale is on the gap-site on Port Rd on Saturday 9AM-1PM.

• Sister Sara's, Port Road, ☏ +353 74 912 2238. M-Th 2-11PM, Sa noon-1:30AM, F Su noon-midnight. Pub and entertainment venue on 3 floors with food, live shows, TV sport and Saturday nightclub. (updated Sep 2021)
• Glencar Inn, Glencar Shopping Centre, Circular Rd, ☏ +353 74 912 9151. Tu-Th 10:30AM-11:30PM, F Sa 10:30AM-12:30AM, Su M noon-midnight. Well-run modern place with decent food. (updated Sep 2021)
• Tír Na nÓg, Ballymacool, ☏ +353 74 916 8883. Out of the way in a residential area near the GAA, and remains closed in 2021. (updated Sep 2021)
• Central Bar, 58 Upper Main St F92 T2C5, ☏ +353 74 912 4088. Daily noon-2:20AM. Comfy sports bar established 1808, with pleasant whitewashed courtyard. Occasional music gigs and nightclub. (updated Aug 2021)
• Blake's Bar, 50 Upper Main St F92 XKN5, ☏ +353 74 912 1616. Daily 10:30AM-10:30PM. A grand lively bar, founded in 1842, with TV sport, live music and beer-garden. (updated Aug 2021)
• Cottage Bar, 49 Upper Main St F92 T9EK, ☏ +353 74 912 1338. 24 hours. Traditional bar, built to look like an old Irish cottage, with an open turf fire. (updated Sep 2021)
• McGinleys Bar, 25-27 Lower Main St F92 EN8X, ☏ +353 74 912 1106. Daily 11AM-1AM. Atmospheric old-style pub with open turf fire and live music most nights. (updated Aug 2021)
• Pulse, 55 Port Rd, ☏ +353 74 912 2689. W Sa 11PM-2:30AM. Late-night entertainment venue. (updated Sep 2021)
• Kinnegar Brewing, Ballyraine Industrial Estate F92 R263, ☏ +353 74 910 3890. M-F 11AM-5PM. Microbrewery producing a range of ales and lagers, tours available. Try the Scraggy Bay IPA. (updated Aug 2021)

As of Aug 2021, Letterkenny has 5G from Eir and Three, and 4G from Vodafone.

Donegal County Council website

• The Ulster American Folk Park on the road to Omagh depicts the Irish emigrant experience in this region.
• Donegal Town's abbey and castle won't take you long, but nearby are fine Atlantic beaches such as Rossnowlagh.
• Arranmore and Tory Island have ferries and accommodation.
• Derry is a fascinating walled city.