Crab jujube

Crab Jujube, locally known as Hoi Jo (Chinese: 蟹枣, Thai: ฮ่อยจอ), is a traditional dish from Southern China. It consists of small crab-shaped cakes resembling the shape of Jujube fruits. The name Hoi Jo is derived from Teochew (潮州话), which is a dialect spoken in Chaoshan (潮汕地区) in Guangdong province (广东省), Southern China.^[1] It is composed of two words. Hoi refers to the crab, while Jo means the jujube fruit. It is a flavorful and beloved dish among Thai Chinese people in Thailand, where it is generally known as Hoi Cho, commonly enjoyed alongside sweet dipping sauce called "plum sauce".

The origins of Crab Jujube can be traced back to a period when Thai culinary traditions intertwined during the era of Chinese migration in 1853, during the fifth monarch of Siam under the House of Chakri, titled Rama V. Historically, it is thought that the dish likely originated from either Fujian or Guangdong provinces in Southern China, which were major sources of Chinese immigrants to Thailand, particularly Hokkien and Chaoshan.^[2] These immigrants are believed to have brought the dish, along with various other Chinese culinary techniques, to Thailand. This culinary exchange led to the merging of local Thai ingredients and cooking methods with those of Chinese origin, resulting in the exceptional fusion cuisine characteristic of Thai-Chinese culinary traditions.^[3][4]

Traditionally, Crab Jujube holds a significant place in the gastronomy landscape of Thai-Chinese communities back to the time, often gracing the tables during festive occasions like Chinese New Year, as well as other culturally significant events such as weddings or ceremonies. As its reputation grew, owing to its flavorful and conveniently bite-sized nature, Hoi Jo gradually gained popularity as a sought-after street food item. Moreover, it became a staple offering in Thai-Chinese eateries throughout Thailand, with a notable presence in bustling Chinatown districts.^[5]

The basic components of Crab Jujube comprise pork, crab meat, and a blend of seasonings, all encased in tofu skin and then deep-fried until achieving a crisp, golden hue. As culinary traditions evolved, especially in Thailand, the dish has undergone various adaptations. These adaptations have led to the creation of Crab Jujube variants using different types of meats.^[6]

According to the traditional recipe, the essential components of Crab Jujube consist of crab meat, shrimp, pork fat or ground pork belly, water chestnuts, eggs, tofu skin, cornstarch, and various vegetables. To commence, meticulously prepare all the ingredients by washing, draining, and finely chopping them, then arrange them into groups. Firstly, ground black pepper, fresh garlic, cilantro stems, or cilantro roots are blended together with minced pork, seasoning the mixture with oyster sauce, sesame oil, sugar, salt, eggs, and cornstarch, while kneading until thoroughly combined. Secondly, minced crab meat is incorporated with chopped green onions, gently mixing until evenly distributed. Thirdly, a sheet of fresh tofu skin is delicately moistened with a small amount of water using a pastry brush, then rolled and cut the tofu skin into approximately 1-foot length. Following that, the tofu skin is laid out and spooned the filling in a line along its length, simultaneously brushing the edge of the tofu skin with a mixture of flour and water. Next, the tofu skin is carefully rolled, ensuring a tight wrap, then tie each roll with kitchen twine and steam them in boiling water for about 15 minutes. After steaming, the rolls are flipped to the tied side, allowing them to dry to prevent sogginess.^[7] Lastly, the twine from the rolls are removed, cut into bite-sized pieces, and deep fry them in hot oil until they achieve a golden brown and crispy.^[8][9]

Due to culinary adaptations, particularly in Thailand, this dish has been reimagined using various types of meat. A notable example of this is "ไก่จ๊อ" (Kai Jo), which utilizes chicken meat. The name was simply switched from "Hoi" to "Kai," meaning chicken in Thai, while "หมูจ๊อ" (Mu Jo) is made with pork meat, called “Mu”. The technique remains the same as "Hoi cho"; it simply substitutes crab meat for chicken and pork. Furthermore, to enhance the richness of flavor, locals have invented a dipping sauce to complement the dish, commonly known as "น้ำจิ้มบ๊วย | 甜梅酱" or Sweet and Sour Plum Sauce.

Originally, Sweet and Sour Plum Sauce (苏梅酱) is a local condiment used in Cantonese cuisine. The traditional recipe typically includes plums, cider vinegar, packed brown sugar, soy sauce, ground ginger, five-spice powder, and red pepper flakes, resulting in an aromatic blend of sour, sweet, salty, and spicy flavors.^[10] However, the adapted recipe widely used in Thailand features pickled plum, red chilies, garlic, granulated sugar, and vinegar. This variation introduces an extraordinary sweetness to the sauce, which contrasts with the dish's flavor profile, yet it harmonizes well with the appetizers favored by the local Thai population.

Over time, Crab Jujube has spread globally through the migration from Southern China, particularly during the period spanning 1937-1945, corresponding to the Second Sino-Japanese War. Consequently, this culinary tradition has been introduced to neighboring regions. Despite undergoing culinary modifications in each country it has reached, the techniques employed and the essential characteristics of the dish remain recognizable as Crab Jujube. This widespread adoption reflects the enduring popularity and influence of Thai-Chinese culinary techniques.

In China, the birthplace of Crab Jujube, the dish is known by two distinct names: "Hoi Jo," which is the appellation used by locals in Chaoshan, and "Pangxie" the term commonly employed by Mandarin-speaking Chinese nationwide. However, owing to culinary adaptations, the ingredients utilized in crafting Crab Jujube in China exhibit notable deviations. The recipe incorporates elements traditional to Chinese cuisine, including sesame oil and isinglass—an extract derived from the dried swim bladders of fish—alongside indigenous components such as Sichuan pepper. Consequently, this gives rise to a discernible divergence in flavor profile when compared to its Thai counterpart.^[11]

In American Chinese cuisine, Crab Jujube can commonly be found in Cantonese Dim Sum (点心) restaurants, which features a similar food concept called "Crab Rangoon." This dish utilizes crab meat seasoned and wrapped in wonton before being deep-fried, with a variation that incorporates cream cheese known as "Cream Cheese Wonton."^[12]

On the other hand, in Canada, the dish is known as "Hoi Jo," which bears similarity to Crab Jujube found in Thailand. While both dishes share commonalities, such as being shaped into balls, the specific ingredients utilized vary depending on the geographical location and cultural differences. With the Canadian-Cantonese fusion style of cooking, Hoi Jo is savored alongside a Teochew sweet Chinese, akin to the plum sauce used in Thailand.

The dish is also a staple in Chinese restaurants across Thailand, widely recognized in both sit-in and takeaway formats. It is particularly prevalent in fast-food restaurants and enjoys immense popularity throughout the country, whether served in formal dining establishments or as a common street food option.

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