Madeleine Vionnet

Manunungod an artikulong ini sa the haute couture designer. Para sa the fashion label, hilingon an Vionnet (company).

Si Madeleine Vionnet (pigsasayod [ma.də.lɛn vjɔ.ne]; Hunyo 22, 1876, Loiret, France – Marso 2, 1975) sarong Pranses na taga desinyo nin moda. Si Vionnet nag-adal sa London bago nagbalik sa Pransiya tanganing siya makatugdok nin saiyang enot sa fashion house sa Paris kan 1912. Dawa ining pwersang pinasara kan 1914 kan nagsiklab an enot na Giyera Mundial , nagbukas ini pakatapos kan giyera asin si Vionnet saro sa nangengenot na paradisenyo sa tahaw nin giyera(1919-1939). Napwersang ipasara an tindahan ni Vionnet kan 1939 asin nagretiro kan 1940.

Inaapod man na "Queen of the bias cut" asin "the architect among dressmakers", si Vionnet midbid sa ngunyan sa saiyang istilong Grecian na pagbado asin nagpasikat sa bias cut sa moda asin nagtaong inspirasyon sa mga paradesinyo sa ngunyan.

Pinangaki kan Hunyo 22, 1876^[1] sa pobreng pamilya sa Chilleurs-aux-Bois, Loiret, si Vionnet naglipat sa Aubervilliers kaiba an saiyang ama sa edad na 5. Kan siya magpundo na sa pag-eskwela, siya nag-adal bilang paratahi kaiba an mga miyembro kan garde champêtre sa edad na dose.^[2] Sa halipot na pag-aguman sa edad na 18 asin pagkagadan kan saiyang aki sa edad na disiotso,^[3] binayaan niya an saiyang agom asin nagduman sa London para magtrabaho bilang paratahi sa hospital. Kan siya nasa London, si Vionnet nagtrabaho bilang fitter ni Kate Reily.^[4]

Nagbalik si Vionnet sa Paris, nagtrabaho nin anom na taon sa fashion house Callot Soeurs bilang paragibo nin toile. Matapos magkaigwang dae pagkakaintindihan sa tagapamahala nin tindahan, nagtangka si Vionnet na maghali sa trabaho. Siya kinumbinsir kang matuang tugang kan mga Callot na si Marie Callot Gerber, matapos tawan nin promosyon na mataong dalan para siya maggibo nin mga desinyo sa modelong si Gerber.^[1] Pinuri ni Vionnet si Marie Callot Gerber bilang "marhay na babayi" Sinabi niya "without the example of the Callot Soeurs, I would have continued to make Fords. It is because of them that I have been able to make Rolls Royces".^[5] An saiyang pagiging simple taliwas sa pagiging engrande kan fashion house.^[3]

Si Vionnet nag desinyo ki Jacques Doucet sa tahaw kang taong1907 hanggang 1911;^[6] pero an saiyang istilo na mayong sapatos asin haluwag na bado nagkaigwang dae pagkakauyon sa istilo kan fashion house.^[2] Kan 1912, minukna niya an saiyang sadiring fashion house na "Vionnet", na nagsara kan 1914 nin huli sa giyera. ^[2] nagbukas si Vionnet nin bagong tindahan kan 1923 sa Avenue Montaigne na smidbid bilang "Temple of Fashion".^[7]Kan 1925, naglawak an saiyang tindahan sa Fifth Avenue, New York City. Nagtinda siyang mga usong bado.

Si Madeleine Vionnet kinokonsiderar na saro sa pinakamapluwensiyang taga-desinyo nin moda kang ika-20 na siglo. An saiyang bias cut asin an saiyang urban na istilo naging patok sa kontemporaryong moda, mahihiling ini sa mga koleksyon kan mga taga-desinyo sa ngunyan arog ni Ossie Clark, Halston, John Galliano, Comme des Garçons, Azzedine Alaia, Issey Miyake asin Marchesa. Sinabi ni Miyake manungod sa gibo ni Vionnet, "the impression was similar to the wonder one feels at the sight of a woman emerging from bathing, draped only in a single piece of beautiful cloth."^[8]

Nagtaong inspirasyon si Vionnet ki Marcelle Chaumont, ina kan awtor na si Madeleine Chapsal. Siya nagsirbing ninang ni Chapsal.^[9]

1. ↑ ^{1.0 1.1} Kirke, Betty (1998-01-01). Madeleine Vionnet (in English). San Francisco: Chronicle Books. ISBN 0811819973. OCLC 39533723. 
2. ↑ ^{2.0 2.1 2.2} "Madeleine Vionnet, puriste de la mode". Les Arts Decoratifs (in French). Retrieved 13 August 2014. 
3. ↑ ^{3.0 3.1} Stevenson, N. J. (2011). The Chronology of Fashion. A & C Black. pp. 104–105. ISBN 978-1408126370. 
4. ↑ Golbin, Pamela (2009). Madeline Vionnet. Rizzoli. 
5. ↑ Polan, Brenda; Tredre, Roger (2009). The Great Fashion Designers. Berg. pp. 13–14. 
6. ↑ Stewart, Mary Lynn (31 March 2008). Dressing Modern Frenchwomen: Marketing Haute Couture, 1919–1939. pp. 8–9. ISBN 9780801888038. 
7. ↑ "Madeleine Vionnet". Retrieved 13 August 2014. 
8. ↑ Ensha, Azadeh (27 September 2012). "Vionnet at 100". T Magazine. New York Times. Retrieved 14 August 2014. 
9. ↑ "Madeleine Vionnet, a giant in french fashion". Avenue Montaigne. Archived from the original on 6 January 2014. 

• Madeleine Vionnet, Pamela Golbin, Patrick Gries, Rizzoli, 2009
• Madeleine Vionnet, Créatrice de Mode, Sophie Dalloz-Ramaux, Editions Cabedita, 2006
• Madeleine Vionnet, 3d Edition, Betty Kirke, Chronicle Books Editions, 2005
• Vionnet – Keizerin van de Mod, Exhibition Catalogue, 1999
• Madeleine Vionnet, 2d Edition, Betty Kirke, Chronicle Books Editions, 1998
• Vionnet, Fashion memoir series, Lydia Kamitsis, Thames & Hudson Editions, 1996
• Vionnet, Collection Mémoire de la Mode, Lydia Kamitsis, Editions Assouline, 1996
• L’Esprit Vionnet, Jéromine Savignon, Publication de l'Association pour l'Université de la Mode, 1994
• Madeleine Vionnet, Les Années d’Innovation, 1919–1939, Exhibition Catalogue, Publication du Musée des Tissus et des Arts décoratifs de Lyon, 1994
• Madeleine Vionnet, 1876-1975 : L’Art de la Couture, Catalogue d’Exposition, Publication du Musée de la Mode de Marseille, 1991
• Madeleine Vionnet, 1st Edition, Betty Kirke, Kyuryudo Art Publishing Editions, 1991
• Madeleine Vionnet, Jacqueline Demornex, Rizzoli Editions, 1991
• Madeleine Vionnet, Jacqueline Demornex, Editions du Regard, 1990
• La Chair de la Robe, Madeleine Chapsal, Editions Fayard, 1989
• Madeleine Vionnet in What Am I Doing Here?, Bruce Chatwin, 1988
• Madeleine Vionnet, ma mère et moi : L'éblouissement de la haute couture, Madeleine Chapsal, Editions Michel Lafon 2010

• The House of Vionnet
• Plantilya:FMD designer
• Spirals & Ellipses: Clothing the Body Three-Dimensionally
• A dressmaker extraordinaire
• "Four haute couture dresses by Madeleine Vionnet". Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories. Victoria and Albert Museum. Archived from the original on 2011-01-07. Retrieved 2010-09-14.  Unknown parameter |url-status= ignored (help)
• "Evening coat". 1936 fur coat. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 2014-10-07. 

An Wikimedia Commons igwa nin medya dapit sa Madeleine Vionnet.