Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c),[1] onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b),[2] and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14).[3] In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.[4]
 Ghisolfi competing at the European Championships, Chamonix, 2013. | |||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Born | February 18, 1993 Turin, Italy | ||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||
| Height | 170 cm (5 ft 7 in) | ||||||||||||||
| Weight | 58 kg (128 lb) | ||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | |||||||||||||||
| Ape index | +4 cm (2 in) | ||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||
| Known for |
| ||||||||||||||
| First ascents |
| ||||||||||||||
Medal record
| |||||||||||||||
| Updated on December 7, 2018 | |||||||||||||||
Climbing career
editCompetition climbing
editIn 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.
Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships.[5] In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldering, and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.
On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.
Rock climbing
editOn November 2, 2015, he made the first free ascent (FFA) of Lapsus, in Andonno (Italy), a 70-hold sport climbing route for which he proposed a grade of 9b (5.15b).[6]
On December 7, 2018, after climbing the 9b+ (5.15c) sport route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.[4]
On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of Change 9b+ (5.15c), in Flatanger Municipality, Norway; the first-ever 9b+ route in history, established by Adam Ondra in 2012.[7]
On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliographie 9b+ (5.15c), in Céüse, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+.[8]
On February 2, 2023, made the FFA of Excalibur, in Arco, in Italy, for which he proposed a grade of 9b+ (5.15c).[9]
Rankings
edit| Discipline | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 21 | 24 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 5 | 1 | |
| Bouldering | 65 | 83 | 30 | 41 | ||||||||
| Speed | 17 | 30 | 38 | |||||||||
| Combined | 10 | 10 | 4 | 9 |
Climbing World Championships
edit| Discipline | 2008 Youth B |
2009 Youth A |
2010 Youth A |
2011 Juniors |
2012 Juniors |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 5 | 15 | 3 | 3 | 13 |
| Speed | 5 | 6 | 5 | - | 17 |
Adult[5]
| Discipline | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 27 | 16 | 10 | 7 | 22 |
| Bouldering | 25 | 16 | |||
| Speed | 30 | 33 |
Climbing European Championships
editYouth[5]
| Discipline | 2012 Juniors |
|---|---|
| Lead | 3 |
Adult[5]
| Discipline | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 37 | 16 | 7 | 10 |
| Bouldering | 37 | 35 | 35 | - |
| Speed | 18 | 32 | 26 | - |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
edit| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2013 | 0 | |||
| 2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2015 | 0 | |||
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
| 2018 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2020 | 0 | |||
| 2021 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
| Total | 6 | 6 | 3 | 15 |
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
edit| Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2011 | Juniors | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
| 2012 | Juniors | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 1 | 1 | 3 | 5 | |
| Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2011 | Juniors | 2 | 2 | ||
| Total | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 | |
Rock climbing
editRedpointed routes
edit9b+ (5.15c):
- Perfecto Mundo - Margalef (ESP) - December 7, 2018[4] - First repeat, first ascent was by Alex Megos, 2018
- Change - Flatanger (NOR) - September 29, 2020[12] - First repeat, first ascent was by Adam Ondra, 2012
- Bibliographie - Céüse (FRA) - August 24, 2021[1] - First repeat, first ascent was by Alex Megos, 2020. Originally 9c, Ghisolfi proposed 9b+ instead.
- Excalibur - Arco (ITA) - February 5, 2023 - First ascent.
9b (5.15b):
- Move Hard - Flatanger (NOR) - September 16, 2022 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017
- L'Arenauta - Sperlonga (ITA) - February 10, 2022 - First ascent.
- The Lonely Mountain - Arco (ITA) - December 17, 2021 - First Ascent.
- Erebor - Arco (ITA) - January 11, 2021[13] - First Ascent. Originally graded 9b/+, downgraded by Adam Ondra.
- La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - January 12, 2018 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2011
- One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 22, 2017 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017
- First Round, First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - January 30, 2017[14]
- Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent[6]
9a+ (5.15a):
- La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - March 20, 2017 [15]
- First Ley - Margalef (ESP) - January 2017 [16]
- Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 19, 2016[17]
- Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - October 2, 2016
- Realization - Céüse (FRA) - June 21, 2015[18] - First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2001
- Demencia senil - Margalef (ESP) - March 14, 2015[19] - First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2009
- La moustache qui fàche - Entraygues (FRA) - August 23, 2014[20]
9a (5.14d):
- Thunder Ribes - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 16, 2016 - Combination of the routes Reini's Vibes, Ultima Pietra, and Stonehenge.
- L'Attimo - Covolo (ITA) - October 11, 2015[21] - First ascent by Silvio Reffo, 2012
- Underground - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - July 5, 2014 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
- Biologico - Narango (Arco, (ITA)) - June 8, 2014 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2012
- TCT - Gravere (ITA) - May 31, 2014 - First ascent
- Grandi Gesti - Grotta dell'Arenauta (Sperlonga, ITA) - December 30, 2013 - First ascent by Gianluca Daniele, 2009
- Ground Zero - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - June 9, 2013 - First ascent by Alberto Gnerro, 2002[22]
8c (5.14b):
8b+ (5.14a):
Ghisolfi climbed five 8B (V13) and two 8B+ (V14) boulder problems.[3]
He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco.[24]
See also
editReferences
edit- ^ a b Planet Mountain, ed. (August 24, 2021). "Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Bibliographie, Alexander Megos' masterpiece at Céüse". Retrieved August 25, 2021.
- ^ a b Planet Mountain, ed. (January 9, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi 8c onsight". Retrieved December 7, 2018.
- ^ a b planetmountain.com, ed. (January 5, 2012). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 8B+ a Varazze". Retrieved February 5, 2013.
- ^ a b c Instagram, ed. (December 7, 2018). "Perfecto mundo 9b+, mission accomplished". Archived from the original on 2021-12-25. Retrieved December 7, 2018.
{{cite web}}:|editor=has generic name (help) - ^ a b c d e f g h IFSC, ed. (July 19, 2021). "Ghisolfi's profile and rankings". Retrieved July 19, 2021.
- ^ a b planetmountain.com, ed. (November 2, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi libera Lapsus ad Andonno, il primo 9b in Italia". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
- ^ Natalie Berry, ed. (September 28, 2020). "Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi". Retrieved October 14, 2020.
- ^ "Et bam... Stefano Ghisolfi décote Bibliographie à 9b+..." August 27, 2021. Retrieved August 27, 2021.
- ^ dmiller (2023-02-22). "Stefano Ghisolfi On Prying Excalibur From the Stone, Exclusive Q&A". Climbing. Retrieved 2023-05-14.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
- ^ WY Championships 2011, not included in Ghisolfi's IFSC profile
- ^ "NEWSFLASH: Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi". www.ukclimbing.com. 28 September 2020. Retrieved 2020-09-29.
- ^ montagna.tv, ed. (January 13, 2021). "Stefano Ghisolfi libera "Erebor": "La via più difficile d'Italia"". Retrieved August 25, 2021.
- ^ "First Round, First Minute is done! Today I finally climbed my second 9b, FA". January 30, 2017. Archived from the original on 2021-12-25. Retrieved January 30, 2017.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (March 21, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi sale La Rambla a Siurana al quarto tentativo". Retrieved March 20, 2017.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (February 14, 2017). "Stefano Ghisolfi e Pietro Biagini, grandi salite a Margalef e Varazze". Retrieved January 31, 2017.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (December 20, 2016). "Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Ultimatum a Massone, nuovo 9a+ ad Arco". Retrieved December 27, 2016.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (June 23, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi chiude Biographie 9a+ a Ceuse". Retrieved July 7, 2015.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (March 15, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi risolve Demencia Senil 9a+ a Margalef". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (August 25, 2014). "Stefano Ghisolfi, primo 9a+ con Le moustache qui fâche". Retrieved July 7, 2015.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (October 13, 2015). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a in un weekend al Covolo". Retrieved November 4, 2015.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (June 10, 2013). "Stefano Ghisolfi da 9a al Tetto di Sarre in Aosta". Retrieved June 10, 2013.
- ^ a b planetmountain.com, ed. (January 11, 2013). "Stefano Ghisolfi, due 8b+ a vista in Spagna". Retrieved February 5, 2013.
- ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (May 5, 2013). "Melloblocco 2013: day ten, l'arrivederci alla Valle". Retrieved May 6, 2013.