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2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1][2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Official event logo
VenueEsforta Arena in Hachioji
LocationJapan Hachioji, Japan
Date11–21 August 2019
Competitors253 athletes from 39 nations
Websitehttps://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/
Ésforta Arena Hachioji, the event venue

Medal summary

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Medalists

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Event Gold Silver Bronze
Men's Lead   Adam Ondra (CZE)   Alexander Megos (GER)   Jakob Schubert (AUT)
Men's Bouldering   Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)   Jakob Schubert (AUT)   Yannick Flohé (GER)
Men's Speed   Ludovico Fossali (ITA)   Jan Kriz (CZE)   Stanislav Kokorin (RUS)
Men's Combined   Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)   Jakob Schubert (AUT)   Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
Women's Lead   Janja Garnbret (SLO)   Mia Krampl (SLO)   Ai Mori (JPN)
Women's Bouldering   Janja Garnbret (SLO)   Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)   Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
Women's Speed   Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)   Di Niu (CHN)   Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
Women's Combined   Janja Garnbret (SLO)   Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)   Shauna Coxsey (GBR)

Medal table

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  *   Host nation (Japan)

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1  Slovenia3104
2  Japan*2215
3  Czech Republic1102
4  Italy1001
  Poland1001
6  Austria0213
7  Germany0112
8  China0101
9  Great Britain0022
10  France0011
  Kazakhstan0011
  Russia0011
Totals (12 entries)88824

Qualification for the 2020 Summer Olympics

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Main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification

The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[3][5]

The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:

2020 Summer Olympic qualification
Men Women

  Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
  Jakob Schubert (AUT)
  Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ)
  Mickaël Mawem (FRA)
  Alexander Megos (GER)
  Ludovico Fossali (ITA)
  Sean McColl (CAN)
  Kai Harada (JPN)*

  Janja Garnbret (SLO)
  Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
  Shauna Coxsey (GBR)
  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL)
  Petra Klingler (SUI)
  Brooke Raboutou (USA)
  Jessica Pilz (AUT)
  Miho Nonaka (JPN)*

*   Japan, as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.

Schedule

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All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]

Q Qualifications SF Semi-finals F Finals
B Bouldering L Lead S Speed C Combined
August 2019 11th
Sun 		12th
Mon 		13th
Tue 		14th
Wed 		15th
Thu 		16th
Fri 		17th
Sat 		18th
Sun 		19th
Mon 		20th
Tue 		21st
Wed
Men B B B L L L Rest day S S C C
Women B C C

Bouldering

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Women

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Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[7]
1 Slovenia  Janja Garnbret 5t5z 5 5 3t4z 7 6 3T3z 8 8
2 Japan  Akiyo Noguchi 5t5z 9 9 2t4z 3 8 2T2z 4 2
3 United Kingdom  Shauna Coxsey 3t5z 6 9 0t3z 0 6 2T2z 6 6
4 Ukraine  Ievgeniia Kazbekova 4t5z 14 14 1t2z 2 3 1T2z 3 4
5 Japan  Miho Nonaka 3t4z 4 8 0t3z 0 5 1T2z 5 6
6 Japan  Nanako Kura 5t5z 12 10 1t2z 1 5 0T1z 0 1

Men

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Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[8]
1 Japan  Tomoa Narasaki 4t4z 8 5 2t4z 2 4 2T4z 12 20
2 Austria  Jakob Schubert 3t4z 5 6 1t4z 3 12 0T3z 0 10
3 Germany  Yannick Flohé 3t5z 5 14 2t4z 13 16 0T3z 0 13
4 Japan  Kokoro Fujii 4t4z 5 5 2t4z 5 6 0T3z 0 18
5 Japan  Keita Dohi 3t5z 6 8 2t4z 5 10 0T2z 0 9
6 Czech Republic  Adam Ondra 5t5z 6 6 3t4z 11 7 0T0z 0 0

Lead

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Women

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Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[9]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 Slovenia  Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.22 38+ 43+
2 Slovenia  Mia Krampl 35+ 6 32 7 7.35 34 39+
3 Japan  Ai Mori 39+ 2 TOP 1 1.73 34+ 38+
4 South Korea  Seo Chae-hyun 34 8 38 4 5.66 32 38+
5 Japan  Akiyo Noguchi 34+ 7 33+ 6 6.48 32 38+
6 Austria  Jessica Pilz 37+ 3 31+ 12 8.26 30+ 35+
7 Slovenia  Vita Lukan 28 21 31+ 12 21.18 35 30+
8 France  Julia Chanourdie 31+ 10 31+ 12 14.97 30+ 30+

Men

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Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final[10]
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1 Czech Republic  Adam Ondra TOP 1 31 22 9.07 37+ 34+
2 Germany  Alex Megos TOP 1 32+ 7 6.06 40+ 33+
3 Austria  Jakob Schubert TOP 1 TOP 1 3.50 30+ 33+
4 Japan  Tomoa Narasaki TOP 1 TOP 1 3.50 38 30
5 Canada  Sean McColl 31+ 9 TOP 1 5.61 37+ 30
6 Italy  Stefano Ghisolfi 28+ 18 TOP 1 8.05 29+ 29+
7 Japan  Kai Harada 32+ 8 TOP 1 5.29 31+ 28+
8 Sweden  Hannes Puman 29+ 11 32+ 7 11.68 29+ 27+

Speed

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Women

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Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
1   Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.472
16   MingWei Ni (CHN) 7.819
  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
  Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.008
8   Patrycja Chudziak (POL) 8.114
9   Elena Remizova (RUS) fall
  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.337
  YiLing Song (CHN) fall
4   Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) 8.465
13   Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.789
  Aleksandra Kałucka (POL) 7.605
  YiLing Song (CHN) 7.192
5   YiLing Song (CHN) 7.436
12   Anna Brożek (POL) 7.945
  Aleksandra Mirosław (POL) 7.129
  Di Niu (CHN) 8.363
2   Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.454
15   Andrea Rojas (ECU) 8.202
  Mariia Krasavina (RUS) 7.998
  Di Niu (CHN) 7.814
7   Natalia Kałucka (POL) 7.895
10   Di Niu (CHN) 7.871
  Di Niu (CHN) 7.525
  Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.535
3   Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 8.409 Small final
14   Aurelia Sarisson (FRA) 10.504
  Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.663   YiLing Song (CHN) 9.76
  Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 10.188   Anouck Jaubert (FRA) 7.53
6   Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS) 7.747
11   PeiYang Tian (CHN) 8.080

Men

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Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]

Round of 16 Quarter-finals Semi-finals Final
            
1   Dmitrii Timofeev (RUS) 6.150
16   Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.944
  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.808
  Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 5.863
8   Sergey Rukin (RUS) fall
9   Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR) 6.232
  Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) fall
  Jan Kriz (CZE) 5.986
4   Reza Alipour (IRI) 6.281
13   John Brosler (USA) 9.383
  Reza Alipour (IRI) 7.248
  Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.219
5   Long Cao (CHN) 6.441
12   Jan Kriz (CZE) 6.136
  Jan Kriz (CZE) fall
  Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 6.871
2   Vladislav Deulin (RUS) 5.612
15   QiXin Zhong (CHN) 5.580
  QiXin Zhong (CHN) FS
  Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
7   Amir Maimuratov (KAZ) fall
10   Ludovico Fossali (ITA) 5.908
  Ludovico Fossali (ITA) WC
  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) FS
3   Bassa Mawem (FRA) 7.470 Small final
14   Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.013
  Rishat Khaibullin (KAZ) 7.613   Stanislav Kokorin (RUS) 5.83
  Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 7.500   Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.93
6   Danyil Boldyrev (UKR) 5.940
11   ZhiYong Ou (CHN) 6.072
WC – Wildcard
FS – False start

Combined

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Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.[6]

In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]

Women

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[14]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Slovenia  Janja Garnbret 12.00 6 13.399 2 1T2z 1 2 1 Top
2 Japan  Akiyo Noguchi 21.00 7 10.082 1 2T2z 3 3 3 40+
3 United Kingdom  Shauna Coxsey 42.00 2 9.225 3 1T2z 2 3 7 20
4 Poland  Aleksandra Mirosław 64.00 1 7.750 8 0T0z 0 0 8 10
5 Japan  Miho Nonaka 80.00 4 12.356 4 1T2z 3 4 5 23+
6 Japan  Ai Mori 80.00 8 12.860 5 1T2z 3 7 2 Top
7 Japan  Futaba Ito 120.00 5 8.655 6 0T2z 0 2 4 27
8 Switzerland  Petra Klingler 126.00 3 8.901 7 0T2z 0 3 6 23+

Men

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[15]

Rank Name Points Speed Bouldering Lead
Rank Time Rank Score Rank Holds
1 Japan  Tomoa Narasaki 4.00 2 fall 1 3T3z 4 3 2 30
2 Austria  Jakob Schubert 35.00 7 7.208 5 0T3z 0 6 1 Top
3 Kazakhstan  Rishat Khaibullin 40.00 1 5.915 8 0T1z 0 2 5 22
4 Japan  Kai Harada 54.00 3 6.348 6 0T2z 0 6 3 30
5 Japan  Meichi Narasaki 60.00 5 6.689 2 1T3z 1 4 6 21
6 Japan  Kokoro Fujii 72.00 6 9.438 3 1T3z 2 6 4 29+
7 France  Mickaël Mawem 112.00 4 6.716 4 1T2z 3 4 7 20
8 Germany  Alexander Megos 448.00 8 7.570 7 0T1z 0 1 8 0

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France". British Mountaineering Council. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  2. ^ "IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships - Briançon (FRA) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  3. ^ a b "GB Climbing in Hachioji: first step to Tokyo 2020". British Mountaineering Council. 5 August 2019. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  4. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  5. ^ "Top climbers seeking to use world championships in Hachioji as springboard to 2020 Games". The Japan Times. Archived from the original on Aug 11, 2019.
  6. ^ a b "All you need to know about the IFSC Climbing World Championships 2019". Olympics.com. Retrieved 2021-09-09.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  8. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N bouldering". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 13, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  9. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  10. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N lead". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 15, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  11. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result W O M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  12. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result M E N Speed". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 17, 2019. Retrieved August 13, 2019.
  13. ^ "IFSC RULES 2019 VERSION No 1.9.2" (PDF). IFSC. Archived from the original (PDF) on Aug 21, 2019.
  14. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result WOMEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 20, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  15. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships - Hachioji (JPN) 2019 - General result MEN combined". IFSC. Archived from the original on August 21, 2019. Retrieved August 20, 2019.
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