Shiraz
Shiraz (Persian: شیراز) is the capital city of the Fars province and a treasure trove of Persian culture. It was the capital of Iran during the Zand dynasty's era (1747–79), and is the celebrated birthplace of the great Persian poets Hafiz and Saadi. The city has a population of about 1,500,000. In previous centuries, Shiraz was famous as a locally produced wine, although this has no connection to the modern Shiraz (or Syrah) wine, which is of French origin.
Get in
[edit]
By plane
[edit]1 [dead link] Shiraz International Airport (SYZ IATA) has regular flights to all major and some smaller cities in Iran. There are International flights to Istanbul, Kuala Lumpur, Dubai, Sharjah, Bahrain, Kuwait, Doha.
Turkish Airlines is operating weekly 4 direct flights from Istanbul to Shiraz and back.
By train
[edit]There are several trains per day to Tehran, travel time is 10-15 hours, and costs 700,000-1,500,000 rials (as of 2017).
2 Shiraz Train station. Station is 20 km away from the city. Getting there: there is a bus waiting for the passengers on their arrival to Shiraz which brings them to the closest metro station. Taxi costs 150,000 rials per person from the city center. 
By bus
[edit]From Tehran, many buses depart from South Terminal. Costs around 600,000 rials and takes around 12 hours.
From Isfahan, many buses depart from Soffe Terminal (the southern terminal of Isfahan). Costs around 300,000 rials and takes around 6 hours.
From Yazd about 10-15 buses a day, 5 hours.
From Kerman several buses per day, 8 hours.
3 Karandish Bus station (ترمینال کاراندیش), ☏ +98 921 439 9709. The main bus station from where departs most of the long-distance buses are. It's a big building with lots of shops, simple eateries and luggage storage (06:30 - 21:30).
4 Ali Ibn Hamze Terminal (ترمینال علی بن حمزه) (right next to the river). A smaller terminal located at the south of the bigger Karandish domestic bus terminal (don't go inside the big terminal). Minibuses to Persepolis depart from there.
By car
[edit]Motorways connect the city to Isfahan, Kerman, Bushehr, Ahvaz and Yasouj, and Bandar-e Abbas is reachable by highway.
Get around
[edit]For non-Iranian visitors, taxis are probably the most convenient means of transport. However be sure to haggle for a good price prior to getting into the car, average fare inside the city 50,000-100,000 rials (as of 2017).
If an unmarked car stops while you are hailing a taxi, don't be alarmed. Many taxis in Shiraz are unmarked and also as a means to supplement their income, is not uncommon to find private car owners touting themselves as taxis.
However, it is always best to find a taxi through a reputable "telephone taxi" agency. For a set fee, drivers of these agencies will take passengers to their destination, drive them around town and also wait for them while they shop or run errands. All hotels and local residents will have a phone number of one these agencies. There are also taxis driven by women that specifically cater to women passengers.
The most secure way (if you have mobile internet) will be to use the taxi app called Snapp. With Snapp you can see the exact price before ordering the taxi and you can also call a taxi driven by women.
The city also has a reasonable bus service.
The city has two metro lines open, as of May 2024:
- Line 1 runs between Ehsan on the north side of the city and the airport in the south of the city.
- Line 2 runs between Imam Hossein (Zand Street) and Heroes (Mianrud).
They intersect at Imam Hossein Sq.
Talk
[edit]Don't hesitate to talk to people, especially youths. Almost all of them speak English well enough to talk to you, answer your questions and chat with you. Respect the Iranian government(Of course, most of the local people hate the government, but don't talk for political caution). and do not air condescending views of Iran.
See
[edit]Old quarters
[edit]- 1 Arg of Karim Khan (Karim Khan Citadel), ☏ +98 71 3224 7648. 08:00 - 21:00. Formerly a prison, but now an architectural wonder on exhibit. The design of the citadel combines military and residential architecture, for it was the home of Karim Khan and the military centre of the dynasty. Tile works depicting legendary tales were added at the entrance gate of the citadel during the Qajar period. 200,000 rials.
- 2 Shah Cheragh (شاه چراغ), ☏ +98 71 3213 1368. A funerary monument and mosque, housing the tomb of Seyed Amir Ahmad, known as Shah-e Cheragh, the brother of Imam Reza, came to Shiraz in the latter half of the 8th century. He died in the city and his tomb is now a place of pilgrimage. The structure, tile work and the dome of the mausoleum have been rebuilt several times over the centuries. The tomb, the beautiful silver doors and the exquisite mirror work are the handicrafts of masters and contemporary artists of Shiraz. Regarded as the holiest place in Shiraz. Besides, it houses a small museum exhibiting about 30 very old and rare Qur'an books. No big cameras allowed. Free entrance and a free guided tour.
- 3 Nasir al-Mulk Mosque (pink mosque). 08:00–11:30, 14:30–17:00. Built during the Qājār era, the mosque has extensively colored glass in its façade, and other traditional elements such as panj kāseh-i (five concaves) in its design. One of the most photographed mosques in southern Iran. Visit before 10:00 to see its beautiful mosaic glasses lit up by the background sun light. 300,000 rials(Oct 2019).
- 4 Jame’e Atigh Mosque. A 9th-century mosque.
- 5 Vakil Mosque. Built between 1751 and 1773, during the Zand period; however, it was restored in the 19th century during the Qajar period where its exuberant floral decorative tiles date from. Parts of the mosque is still under construction so it's barely used as a mosque by locals. 150,000 rials.
- 6 Narenjestan Ghavam museum (Qavam House). Both traditional and historical house, it was built in the mid-to-late 19th century by Mirza Ibrahim Khan. The Qavam "Naranjestan" preserves the elegance and refinement enjoyed by the upper-class families during the 19th century. The mirrored porch was a focal point of the house, overlooking onto gardens lined with date palms and flowers. The house today is a museum open to the public. 200,000 rials.
- 7 Khan-e Zinat ol-Molk House, Next to Naranjestan Qavam. Historical house and adjoining gardens that used to be connected to Narenjestan Ghavam by underground tunnel. Now it works as a separate museum which besides of the traditional Iranian house houses Fars History museum in its basement. 150,000 rials.
- 8 Sayyed Alaeddin Hossein Mosque. It holds shrine of Sayyed Alaeddin Hossein, one of the sons of the seventh imam. Mosque's walls and ceilings are covered with intricate mirror mosaics and coloured glass. Free entrance and free guided tour.
- 9 Pars Museum. 08:00–13:30, 14:30–17:30. Museum's pavilion was the place in which royal guests were hosted during the Zand dynasty. It was also used for holding official ceremonies and later became the burial place of Karim Khan Zand. Now it exhibits 30 handwritten Qurans and paintings of Persian artists.
- 10 Khan school (Madrese Khan), Lotf Ali Khan Zand St. It's been fully reconstructed where only its facade belongs to the original structure.
- 11 Armenian Church. 17th-century Armenian Church, which survived from the Safavid era.
Bazaars
[edit]- 12 Bazaar-e Vakil. Huge ancient bazaar specializing in fine carpets, textiles, antiques and handicrafts, and spices. There is also a wonderful courtyard with a pool located in the bazaar, perfect for photographs. Caravansarais, bath houses, and old shops where hundreds of vendors are housed.
- 13 Saray-e-Moshir. Caravansary at the south entrance of Bazaar Vakil, which now functions as exhibition space for Iranian handicrafts.
- 14 Vakil Bath, ☏ +98 71 3224 7646. 08:00 – 17:30. An old public bath which has been remodelled into a museum of waxworks. 150,000 rials.
- 15 Mesgarha Bazaar.
Northern parts near Baba Kuhi and Chehel Maqam mountains
[edit]- 16 Hafez Tomb, ☏ +98 71 3228 4155. 8:00 - 22:00. Mausoleum of Hafez (1324–1391), the greatest master of Persian lyric poetry and the literary giant of the 14th century in the west and central Asia, was born in Shiraz, lived all his life here, sang its praises in unsurpassed verse and was buried in a garden known after him as the Hafezieh, in the northeast part of the city. The wide appeal of this poet among all Persian-speaking people make his tomb a cherished placed, visited by all. This mausoleum was rebuilt in the early 1950s. A flight of stone steps reaches to the tomb under a tiled cupola resembling a dervish’s hat. The tombstone is beautifully inscribed with two of Hafez’s poems or Ghazals. Visitors to the tomb can still, as they have done for centuries, take the omens, or faals, by picking a page at random from a volume of Hafez, kept for this purpose. 500,000 rials.
- 17 Saadi Tomb. Here lie the earthly remains of one of Iran’s greatest poets. Even from the very early days after the poet’s death, the mausoleum of Sa’di became a place of pilgrimage to lovers of poetry and literature. In 1808 AD Karim Khan Zand renovated the mausoleum. The tomb was rebuilt in the early 1950s. The porch with its tall columns of pinkish marble is a traditional feature of Iranian architecture. 200,000 rials.
- 18 Ali Ibn Hamzeh Holly Shrine, Hafez St (near Hamzeh Bridge). Built over the shrine of Emir Ali, a nephew of Shah Cheragh. The building itself is quite new as it had to be rebuilt after an earthquake. However, it can boast of the richly-ornamented interiors, parts of which are made of marble and mirror mosaics. Free entrance and free guided tour.
- 19 Shah Shoja Tomb. Tomb of Shah Shoja', the Mozafarid emir of Persia, and patron of Hafiz.
- 20 Baba Kuhi Tomb. The Tomb of Baba Kuhi sits atop a mountain overlooking the city. Free entrance.
- 21 Qur'an Gate (Dar vazeh Quran). The city's main entrance. The original gate was built as an ornamental decoration by the Buwwayhids (Buwayhid dynasty) about 1000 years ago, but this was replaced 60 years ago by new gate, which is considered one of the finest architectural designs in Iran and has won numerous awards. From the gate walk up the stone stairways to enjoy picturesque and panoramic views of Shiraz. The tomb of Khajooyeh Kermanee, a famous poet, is also located here (entrance ticket 115,000 rials). Hidden in the alleys on the hill-side are numerous restaurants that serve the finest chelo kabob. It is an excellent place for picnics and taking photographs.
- 22 Haft Tanan Museum, Haft Tanan Blvd, ☏ +98 71 3227 7877. 08:00 - 19:30. It's a mausoleum, where seven Sufi mystics are buried. Besides, there is a museum of stones that were collected from historical sites in Fars province. 60,000 rials.
- 23 Gahvareh Did, Haft Tanan Blvd. People say this is the place where a guard tower was located in the old days, nowadays it has a stone replica of it. Besides, it's a fantastic observation point. Be prepared to climb up 800 steps to get there. Or be lucky that one of the guards at the gate will drive you up the hill. Even further up the road you'll end up at Mortaz Ali well, where you'll have an even more impressive overview of Shiraz (if there is no smog). Free admission.
- 24 Qasr e Abu Nasr (Abu-Nasr Palace or Takht e Sulayman [Throne of Solomon]). Fortress built in Parthian Empire and was important and strategic location in Sassanid Empire. Archaeologists found various drachmas and art crafts belonged to different historical periods there. There is almost nothing left from those times, just stones.
Further afield
[edit]- 25 [dead link] Ancient City Bishapur (140 km west of Shiraz).
Do
[edit]Gardens
[edit]- 1 Delgosha Garden (Bagh-e-delgosha). Enjoy a walk in this lovely old garden with flowers and bitter orange trees.
- 2 Afif abad Garden (Bagh-e-afifabad). Garden and houses owned by the Ghavami family. It contains a former royal mansion, a historical weapons museum, and a Persian garden that is one of the oldest gardens in Shiraz, all open to the public.
- 3 Eram Garden (Bagh-e-eram), ☏ +98 71 3227 2538. 08:00 - 17:00. Inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, this stunningly beautiful complex contains a vast network of gardens, a colorful palace, and a system of small artificial rivers flowing throughout the entire area. It houses wonderful flora, and you can follow the little canals' intricate system. Make sure the weather is sunny before coming here! 200,000 rials.
- 4 Jahan Nama Garden. 08:00 - 22:00. 115,000 rials plus separate ticket (20,000 rials) is required for the garden's museum.
Buy
[edit]Shops usually open 09:00-13:00 and 17:00-21:00. It is customary to haggle for a discount, which is referred to as a takhfeef.
Shopping malls
[edit]- 1 Aftab Fars Shopping Centre (MaaliAbaad Blv.).
- 2 Hafez Shopping Centre, Afifabad Blv, ☏ +98 71 3627 3721.
- 3 Persian Gulf Complex (Sepidan Hwy. Near Sadra and Golestan Towns).
- Setareh Fars Shopping Center, Afifabad Blv.
- 4 Sina Shopping Centre, Motahhari Blv. Tu-Su 09:00-16:00, M 09:00-20:00.
- 5 Zaytoon Shopping Centre, 15 khordad Crossroad at the corner of Enghelab St, ☏ +98 71 3233 1136. 08:00–23:00.
Money exchange
[edit]Exchange rates offered in local safaris are 10-15% higher than the official bank rate.
- 6 Currency exchange offices (near Karim Khan Citadel and Shohada square).
Eat
[edit]Local specialties
[edit]
- Kebab with rice - Like elsewhere in Iran, the mighty old kebab with rice is a common fare, though Shiraz does offer a local variation on the national dish.
- Shirazi salad - A delicious and famous salad available throughout Iran, made with cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and a simple lemon juice and olive oil dressing.
- Kalam polo - Traditional food cooked only in Shiraz. Some delivery food restaurants serve this food, but it can hardly be found in normal restaurants. It is made of rice, meatballs, chopped cabbage and some other vegetables and spices.
- Ash-e Sabzi - Ash-e Sabzi or Ash-e Shirazi is a kind of soup made of vegetables and meat. It is served all over the city, but mainly early in the morning, 05:00-07:30.
- Masghati Halva - A great dessert and snack.
- Nokhod (Chickpea) Cookie - Delicious cookie made of chickpeas, it makes for great souvenirs.
- Shirazi Faloodeh - Paloodeh/Faloodeh is an ice cream made of rice starch, which takes the form of noodles. It is flavored with "sharbat" (sugar water), which can be of different flavors. Shirazi paloodeh is the best of its kind, especially when mixed with Bahar-e-Naranj Distill.
Restaurants
[edit]Many of these places have live music playing.
- 1 Haft khan. Buffet and classic restaurant, Iranian and international cuisine. Buffet 27$ per person.
- Lotus Restaurant, on the 13th floor of Pars International Hotel
- Lotus Restaurant, on the top floor of Setareh-e-Fars Shopping Centre
- 2 Shater Abbas, Khak Shenasi St.. Simple traditional Iranian restaurant with quite average food.
- 3 Sharzeh Restaurant. A classic old restaurant located just outside the Vakil bazaar. It is often packed with tourist groups. 180,000 rials salad buffet.
- Soofi Restaurant, traditional restaurant located at Sattarkhan St.
- 4 Dragon. Chinese food. 150,000-400,000 rials per meal.
- Noor, Lebanese restaurant, Chamran Blv
- Moshit Restaurant (spelling?), Corner of North Qaani street. opens 07:00. A small restaurant that also serves breakfast: fried eggs, tea, and the famous Ash-e-shiraz. breakfast 60,000 rial.
- 5 Persian Dinner, Fazilat Boulevard, 31 Rd, second right, blue door, ☏ +989128092545, hajianim@gmail.com. opens 13:00-23:00. Not a restaurant, but a house that needs to be booked in advance for an Iranian and Shirazian dinner. €15.
Fast food
[edit]You can find at least one fast food parlor in every street of Shiraz.
- Bagro, experience the real taste of pizza and sandwich in a lovely place
- Givani, modern restaurant offering Burgers, FC, Pizza
- Safir SFC, another Modern themed restaurant
- Exis, Italian and Mexican fast foods
- Sand, a lovely fast food with a unique interior design
- Zaver, great Italian pizzas
- 6 Baba bastani (بابا بستنی), West Ghodoosi Blv. Ice cream shop, more creamy than most other ice cream found in Shiraz. Try the special cone ice cream. The shop is popular with the locals, so expect a queue. No seats but there is a small park beside.
Cafés
[edit]You can find coffee shops of every size, at shopping centres and on the main streets.
- Brentin, Sattarkhan Blv
- Blensi, Dena Building, Moali abad Blv
- Wafi, Dena Building, Moali abad Blv
- Parmin, Parmin Building, Moali abad Blv
- Tulip, Khakshenasi st
- Safir, Ghasr dasht st
- Soofi, Chencheneh Intersection
Food gardens
[edit]There are a lot of gardens out of Shiraz, and many have been remodeled as restaurants. Most have live music playing in the evenings and offer great view.
- Nakhlestan Garden
- Padra Garden, relatively new
- Darband Garden
- Silvia Garden
Drink
[edit]Traditionally, Shiraz was known for producing high-quality wines, and had a thriving wine industry, though this was shut down after alcohol was banned following the Islamic Revolution in 1979. That said, the Christian and Jewish minorities are allowed to ferment limited quantities of wine for personal consumption and religious ceremonies, and you may get a chance to try the local wine if you have local Christian or Jewish friends. Even some local Muslims continue to clandestinely consume local wine obtained from the black market. For more information on typical drinks in Iran, see Iran#Drink
- Distills - Shiraz has many kinds of aromatic distills.
- Haiku, Gas Square, in front of Azadi Park, across street,. 08:00 to 13:00. Special herb teas and coffee with fresh baked cakes and desserts.
- Taropood Art Gallery, behind the national museum. Art gallery with a nice cafe attached to it. Regular free exhibitions as well (updated Oct 2016).
Sleep
[edit]Budget
[edit]There are a few budget hotels about 200 m south of the roundabout at Arg-é Karim Khan.
- 1 Sohrab Traditional Hostel. Small guest house run by a very friendly owner. Single 750,000 rials.
- 2 Lotus guest house, Khyabne Lotfali-Khane Zand, Kuche Baghe Ghawam, Kuche Hamame Gachine, No. 12 (12/2) (Look for Homayouni hostel sign on 12 Road, and pass that hostel.), ☏ +98 7132241147, +98 9177059775 (WhatsApp), shiraz.lotus.house@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. 8 room hostel with courtyard Breakfast included.
- 3 Golshan Hostel, No. 15 Alley 38. Lotfali Khan-e-Zand (Look for sign on the north side boardwalk of the street, follow the alley), ☏ +98-713-2220715, parvizro@yahoo.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Awesome traditional court to hang around, drink tea and have a shisha. There is a five-bed dorm room. The owner, Parviz, is an honest and good host, who speaks English fluently. He knows all transport possibilities and can book you a hotel he likes in another city at a fair price. Dorm bed 300,000 rials; Single 750,000 rials; Double 900,000 rials; Triple 1,650,000 rials. Breakfast included.
- 4 Niayesh Boutique Hotel (Seven Hostels in Shiraz), No. 10, Shahzadeh Jamali Lane, Bibi Dokhtaran Mausoleum Lane, Namazi junction, Lotfali Khan-e Zand St. (Difficult to find, but it's not far from Shah-e Cheragh Shrine. From the police station 300 metres or so up the road it's clearly signposted), ☏ +98-713-2233623, info@niayeshhotels.com. Check-in: 12.00, check-out: 12.00. A new hotel with a nice inner courtyard and an OK restaurant serving standard fare. There is a dormitory, but it only sleeps four (with two single beds and a double bed). Great value for money. Very good buffet breakfast. Optional extras like tea and laundry are quite expensive, so make sure you settle on a price before agreeing to use additional services. There are reports of private car drivers booked through this hotel overcharging, and the hotel is not responsible for that. Dorm bed US$10, Single US$15; Double US$40; Triple US$50, includes breakfast.
- 5 Golha Hotel, Karim Khan Zand Blvd, ☏ +98 71 3233 2729. Good location. Clean and very cheap. They speak no English, though. No breakfast. Double 600,000 rials.
- 6 Taha Hostel, Darvaze Kazeroon Front of Armenian Church (close to niayesh hotel), ☏ +98 71 3738 1610, toll-free: +989393939293, taha.hostel@gmail.com. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional house with high walls and orange trees. Rooms with old brick and stone and wooden doors, preserved from the Qajar period. Hostel with small traditional courtyard. US$11.
- Darya Hotel, Piruzi Street. Clean. Single 180,000 rials; Double 250,000 rials.
Mid-range
[edit]- Apadana Hotel, Ahli St., ☏ +98 71 12301336, +98 71 12359322, fax: +98 71 12301337.
- Aryo-Barzan Hotel, Roodaki Ave., ☏ +98 (711) 2247182-4, fax: +98 (711) 2228959.
- Eram Hotel, Karim Khan-é Zand., ☏ +98 71 230-3884.
- Parseh Hotel, 22 Bahman St., ☏ +98 (711) 2226600, fax: +98 (711) 2223003.
- Parsian Hotel, Roodaki Ave., ☏ +98 (711) 2304965-69, fax: +98 (711) 2331000.
- Arian Hotel, Ferdowsi St., before the Rudaki crossroad, ☏ +989178785416, arian.hotel0090@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Close to the city center. Double €25, triple €35, four bed €40.
- 7 Jahannama Hotel, Hejrat Blvd, middle of Javid St, ☏ +989178785416, jahannama.hotel2018@gmail.com. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Between the tomb of Hafez and the Zandiyeh Complex, and close to the city center. Included breakfast and free Wi-Fi. It's better to send an email for reserve and confirmation and get info about hotel. Double €30, triple €40, four bed €50.
Splurge
[edit]- 8 Chamran Grand Hotel, Chamran Blvd, ☏ +98 711 626 2000, fax: +98 711 6291111, info@hotelchamran.com. Tallest hotel building in Shiraz. 250 rooms and suites on 30 floors.
- 9 Homa Hotel, Meshkinfam St (Next to Azadi Park.), ☏ +98 71 32288000, +98 71 32288009, fax: +98 71 32288014, +98 71 32288021. Housed in the former Intercontinental.
- 10 Pars International Hotel, Zand Boulevard, ☏ +98 71 3233 2255, fax: +98 71 32307006.
- 11 Persepolis International Hotel, Atlasi Sq., Azadi Blvd., ☏ +98 71 3227 1280, fax: +98 (71) 32280941.
Stay safe
[edit]- Shiraz is the safest city in all of Iran, and Fars province is also the safest province in Iran
- See also the information at Iran#Stay safe.
Emergency services
[edit]- Police: 110
- Fire Assistance : 125
- EMS: 115
- Road EMS: 115 or 112
Cope
[edit]- 1 Immigration office (Shiraz passport office), on a side street off Modares Boulevard, 300 m east from Valiye-asr Square (20 minute walk from central Shiraz). Sa-Th 07:30 - 14:00. Visa extensions for foreign tourists.
Go next
[edit]
- Firouzabad — revived old town destroyed by Alexander of Macedonia. With two stumbling palaces of those days: Qal'eh Dokhtar and Castle of Ardeshir e Babakan.
- Jahrom, to the south of Shiraz
- Isfahan
- Kerman
- Margoon Waterfall — 70 meter high and 100 meter wide waterfall
- Pasargad was a Persian capital built by Cyrus the Great in the 6th century BC. Around 500 BC, Darius I built a new capital at Persepolis 50 km away. Both are now listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List and are near Shiraz. Pasargad has the limestone tomb of Cyrus and the 'prison' of Solomon. 200.00 rials (Oct 0219)
- Persepolis — a historical site 60 km north of Shiraz that used to be a ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire. The earliest remains of Persepolis date back to 515 BC.
- Yazd