Cork
Cork is the principal city of County Cork in southwest Ireland. Known as "the Rebel City" the "real capital of Ireland", Cork has a strong independence and Corkonians are proud of its role in Irish history. This historic merchant port has a lot of Georgian architecture and lively arts, music and food scenes.
It was already the second-largest city in Ireland when in 2019 its boundaries were extended, to have a population of 210,000. The new boundary includes the town of Blarney, but this is described on its own page; Cobh and Crosshaven downriver remained separate.
Understand
[edit]
Corcaigh is an old word for "salt-marsh" — the River Lee broke up into a wetland delta draining into the drowned valley that forms its natural outer harbour. It was tidal and navigable, and Saint Fin Barre founded a monastery on its south bank in 606 AD, the nucleus of a settlement. The Vikings in the 9th and 10th centuries and the Anglo-Normans from the 12th were also attracted by this fertile area, and sought to claim the area as their own. It was under King Henry II that Cork was granted city status in 1185.
Medieval Cork was walled for defence and overcrowded, so several river channels became infilled, the basis of what is now St Patrick's Street, South Mall and Grand Parade. The main north and south channels persisted, enclosing the arrow-shaped island of the city centre. Cork's heyday was the 17th century, when sea trade was booming but ships had not yet outgrown the river; later the port moved downstream to Cobh. Prosperous suburbs such as Sunday's Well and Montenotte were built on higher ground on the north bank, while on the south bank a university campus grew up from the 19th century.
The Cork Tourist Information Centre is at 125 St Patrick's St, corner of Lavitt's Quay one block west of the bus station.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]1 Cork Airport (ORK IATA), Kinsale Rd (8 km south of centre on N27), ☏ +353 21 431 3131. The main operators are Aer Lingus and Ryanair. Flights are short-haul from the UK and Europe: the runway is too small for wide-bodied jets so there's nothing transatlantic or from the Gulf. UK destinations are London (Gatwick, Heathrow, Luton and Stansted), Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Manchester and Newcastle upon Tyne. Year-round European destinations are Amsterdam, Budapest, Gdansk, Katowice, Krakow, Lanzarote, Lisbon, Malaga, Malta, Munich, Paris CDG, Poznań, Tenerife and Wrocław. There are seasonal flights from other Med destinations and the ski resorts. The airport has a single terminal, with a long hall for departures and arrivals, and a similar long airside hall for departures. There are the usual facilities including car hire. The airport hotel is a short walk away and Travelodge is 2 km north, see Sleep. 
To the city: Buses 225 / 226 run every 30 min between the airport, Parnell Place next to Cork bus station, and the main railway station, taking 25 min to the city. Bus 225 starts from Haulbowline navy base via Ringaskiddy cruiser terminal and Carrigaline, Bus 226 starts from Kinsale. In 2023 an adult single is €2.20 by cash and €2 by Leap card.
The taxi rank is outside Arrivals. A taxi to city centre might be €25 for up to four passengers.
Dublin Airport (DUB IATA) may work out better, for its better range of flights and direct buses to Cork.
Shannon Airport (SNN IATA) near Limerick is a good alternative for transatlantic flights. There's public transport to Cork but you'll be wanting a rental car.
By boat
[edit]|
Get in by wooden horse
Statio Bene Fide Carinis is the city motto - "a safe harbour for ships". It's a tale told in flashback by a weeping Aeneas in Episode 2 of Virgil's saga. The Greeks pretend to abandon their assault on Troy and sail home. Their fleet hides behind Tenedos, nowadays Bozcaada, in statio male fida carinis — a bad anchorage, where no-one's going to look for them. And they leave behind a giant wooden horse: Trojan curiosity overcomes caution, and Troy is destroyed by importing this malware. The Cork city fathers switched "male" - bad - to "bene" - good, for their motto. "Carina" strictly means the keel of a ship, and similar edges such as a woodwind reed. In English it gives us "careenage", hauling a ship onto its side to scrape the bottom. In Slav languages it came to mean customs and tax on a ship, which Cork city enjoyed as much as it enjoyed backing the horses. |
In summer there are car ferries from Roscoff (15 hr) and Santander (26 hr) to Cork once or twice a week, operated by Brittany Ferries. They were suspended in 2020 and the timetable for 2021 has not been announced.
2 Cork Ferry Terminal is at Ringaskiddy, 15 km south east of the city on N28. Bus 223 / 225 runs here, see Get around.
Cruise liners often visit: they may dock at Cobh or at Ringaskiddy, or land passengers by tender for excursions. Many are on round-trip itineraries, but check the upcoming cruise schedule in case a point-to-point journey is possible. For instance transatlantic one-way cruises from New York might let you off at Cork on their way to Southampton.
By train
[edit]
Trains run hourly from Dublin Heuston, taking 2 hr 40 min to Cork via Kildare, Portlaoise, Ballybrophy, Thurles, Limerick Junction (for Tipperary) and Mallow. A walk-up single is around €40, see Irish Rail website for timetables, fares and online tickets. From central Dublin, get a ticket from city centre not Heuston, as this includes the tram fare and saves a couple of euros over separate tickets.
From Limerick, change at Limerick Junction. Change there also coming from Waterford, via Carrick-on-Suir, Clonmel, Cahir and Tipperary.
From Tralee (via Killarney and Mallow) a couple of trains are direct, but you normally change at Mallow onto the commuter train.
Commuter trains run from Cobh and from Midleton every 30 min. See Get Around for the suburban stations.
3 Kent Station is the main station,on Lower Glanmire Road, 500 m east of city centre. There's just a coffee shop here but lots of facilities outside on the street, and be grateful that your train isn't going to be hauled by Engine No 36, the Victorian 2-2-2 loco in the main hall. For local buses take the south exit onto Horgan's Quay. The station is named for Thomas Kent or Tomás Ceannt (1865 – 1916), executed for his part in the Easter Rising. He and his three brothers actually stayed home, but when the police came to arrest known sympathisers there was a shoot-out which killed his brother Richard and a policeman.
By bus
[edit]Buses run hourly from Dublin Airport (3 hr 30 min) and Busáras (3 hr) to Cork, for a single adult fare of around €20. There's competition on the route between Aircoach (Bus 704X), Bus Éireann (Expressway X8) and Gobus.
City Link runs every 3 hours from Galway via Shannon Airport, Limerick, and Cork city centre and airport. The slower Bus Éireann 51 runs hourly from Galway via Ennis, Shannon Airport, Limerick and Mallow to Cork.
Expressway Bus 40 runs hourly from Rosslare harbour (for ferries from Wales and the Continent) via Wexford, New Ross, Waterford, Dungarvan and Youghal to Cork, where it takes a break then continues west to Macroom, Ballyvourney, Killarney, Farranfore (for Kerry Airport) and Tralee.
Bus Éireann 260 runs five times a day from Youghal to Cork; some of them start from Ardmore in County Waterford.
The bus terminus is 4 Parnell Place 
By car
[edit]From Dublin take M7 onto M8 and reckon 2 hr 30 min. There are tolls at Portlaoise and Fermoy, €1.90 at each, pay online or by phone. Avoid rush hour in Dublin or Cork if you can.
N20 from Limerick is mostly an undivided road and will take around 1 hr 45 min to Cork. Say an hour from Killarney and 90 min from Waterford.
From Cobh you could cross via 5 Passage West Ferry onto R610.
Try to avoid bringing a car into city centre. If you're day-tripping, use the Park & Ride at Black Ash south side of the city; it's well signposted and cost €5 to park all day, with a free bus to and from the centre. The last outbound bus is at 8PM and the park is locked at 8:30PM so it's not for evening attractions. The University has its own Park & Ride and shuttle bus, but you need to show staff or student ID to use it.
Get around
[edit]
On foot
[edit]Cork has a small city centre, and most places to stay, eat, drink and tour are within one busy km. So too are the transport hubs.
By bicycle
[edit]There are many cycleways, both in-street and segregated, with some contraflow lanes.
The bike share scheme has docking stations across the city centre extending west to UCC. You need to register and pay a deposit of €150. As of Nov 2020, an annual pass is €10 and a 3-day visitor pass is €3. The first 30 min of any journey is free.
Cycle shops offering bike hire are Cycle Scene and The Bike Shed. Kilgrews in city centre sell and repair but don't hire.
By train
[edit]Irish Rail commuter trains serve three lines out of Cork Kent station:
- East then south every 30-60 min to Little Island, Glounthaune, Fota (for Wildlife Park), Carrigaloe, Rushbrooke and Cobh, taking 25 min, single fare €5.
- East every 30-60 min to Little Island, Glounthaune, Carrigtwohill and Midleton, for the Jameson Whiskey Distillery, 25 min, single fare €5.
- North hourly non-stop to Mallow, for the racecourse, 25 min. Many of these are inter-city trains to Dublin Heuston or Tralee, but you pay the same commuter fare of around €10 single.
By bus
[edit]
Buses in Cork are run by Bus Éireann, with 22 routes, see map. Apart from three orbital routes that you're unlikely to use (201 north, 219 south and 225 further south), they all run cross-town, with central stops around St Patrick Street, Merchants Quay or Parnell Place main bus station. They run daily 6:30AM-11:30PM, every 10-20 min at peak times, except Bus 220 which runs 24 hours.
- Route 202 from Hollyhill and Knocknaheeney northwest to city centre then Blackrock and Mahon Point southeast.
- Route 203 from Farranree and Blackpool in the north to city centre then Turners Cross and Ballyphehane south.
- Route 205 from Cork Institute of Technology and University College Cork west to Kent Railway Station.
- Route 208 from Curraheen and Cork University Hospital southwest to city centre then Mayfield and Lotabeg northeast.
- Route 213 from Black Ash Park & Ride south to St Patrick Street in the city centre; no Sunday service. The P&R is locked at 8:30PM.
- Route 214 from Cork University Hospital and Wilton southwest to city centre.
- Routes 215 and 215A from Jacobs Island and Mahon Point southeast to South Mall in the city centre. Route 215 also extends northwest across the city to Blarney and Cloghroe.
- Route 220 runs 24 hours from Ovens and Ballincollig in the west to city centre then Douglas and Carrigaline southeast. Alternate buses continue to Crosshaven.
Most bus stops have real time displays. You can also plan your journey and check real time arrivals with the TFI website and apps. All buses are low-floor wheelchair accessible.
Cash fares within the city are €2.40-2.80 adult and €1.40-1.70 child, while if paying with a TFI Leap Card are €1.68-1.96 adult and €0.98-1.19 child. On TFI Leap Card, 24-hour, 7-day and monthly tickets are also available.
By taxi
[edit]Taxis bear a yellow bar with their licence number and "taxi" or "Tacsaí" printed on it. If the light is on, the taxi is available for hire. Have nothing to with unofficial taxis.
Fares are nationally regulated so you pay the same stuck in traffic trying to reach the airport as you do up a back lane in Ballydehob. Taxis are required to use the meter, to accept credit and debit cards as well as cash, and not to surcharge any card. However it's €3 extra for booking instead of hailing on the street or using a taxi rank, and phone apps may impose a further charge. Fares are revised every two years so from Dec 2024 you pay:
- Standard rate (M-Sa 8AM-8PM): Flagfall (then 500 m or 85 sec) €4.40; then Tariff A (next 15 km or 43 min) €1.32 / km or €0.47 / minutes to max €23.60; then Tariff B €1.72 / km or €0.61 / min.
- Premium rate (M-Sa 8PM-8AM, all day Sunday and most public holidays): Flagfall €5.40, Tariff A €1.81 / km or €0.64 / minutes to max €31.80; then Tariff B €2.20 / km or €0.78 / min.
- Special rate (Sa Su midnight-4AM, 24 Dec 8PM through Christmas to 8AM 26 Dec, 31 Dec 8PM to 8AM 1 Jan): same as Premium rate but after flagfall you go straight to Tariff B, there's no Tariff A.
You may be able to negotiate a rate for a tour round the sights, eg out to Blarney Castle.
See
[edit]- 1 Crawford Art Gallery, Emmett Place T12 TNE6, ☏ +353 21 480 5042. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11AM-4PM. The permanent collection includes paintings by Jack Yeats and Sean Keating, and a series of plaster casts of classical statues, which King George IV found tedious. The gallery is expected to close for two years from Sep 2024 for rebuilding. Free.
- 2 Elizabeth Fort, Barrack St T12 C8A0, ☏ +353 21 497 5947. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su noon-5PM. The original fort built in 1601 was just timber and earth, and the citizens made short work of it. It was rebuilt from 1624 as a stout "star" fortress. It lost its defensive role in 1719 but was variously used as a barracks, a depot for convicts (mostly female) awaiting transportation to the colonies, and a police station to 2013. It's now simply a tourist area with a gallery and occasional events, and you can walk along the walls. Free.
- 3 St Fin Barre's Cathedral, Bishop St T12 K710, ☏ +353 21 496 3387. M-Sa 9:30AM-5:30PM, Su 1-5:30PM. Saint Fin Barre (550-623 AD) was a preacher who spent his last 17 years hereabouts. A monastery dedicated to him was built in the 7th century, and there have been at least three churches on the site before the present building. This is an elaborate Church of Ireland (Anglican) cathedral built 1865-79 in Gothic Revival style. The interior is relatively small: Burgess the architect realised it would go way over budget so the focus was on creating a grand frontage, to impress the citizens and overawe the resurgent Catholics. There are three great spires, intricate carvings and gargoyles, stain glass windows, and a high ceiling over a rather stubby nave. The pipe organ adds to the cathedral's many expensive items of construction and maintenance. Adult €7, conc €6, child free.
- 4 Nano Nagle Place, Douglas St T12 X70A, ☏ +353 21 419 3580. Tu-Su 10AM-5PM. Honora Nagle (1718-1784) pioneered Catholic education for girls in an era when that was repressed by the Penal Laws. She founded an Ursuline convent and the Presentation Sisters, which inspired Edmund Rice in Waterford to found the Presentation Brothers and later Christian Brothers. The museum depicts Nano's life, times and works, and the garden is an oasis of tranquillity. Adult €7.50, conc €5, child €4.50.
- Red Abbey Tower is off Douglas St just east of Nano Nagle Place. It's one of the few medieval structures remaining in Cork, the bell tower of a 14th-century Augustinian abbey: in 1690 John Churchill (later Duke of Marlborough) used its vantage point to blast away at the Jacobites below. The Augustinians moved out in the 18th century and the abbey became a sugar refinery, then in 1799 a fire destroyed everything except the tower. You can't go inside.
- 5 Church of St Anne, Shandon (Shandon Bells), Church St T23 YN88, ☏ +353 21 450 5906. Mar-May Oct: M-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su 11:30AM-4PM; Jun-Sep: M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 11:30AM-4:30PM; Nov-Feb: daily 11AM-3PM. Shandon is the neighbourhood climbing the hill along the old road to Mallow. This Church of Ireland (Anglican) church was built in 1722; the famously inaccurate clock on its tower became known as "the four-faced liar". The church is best known for the eight "bells of Shandon that sound so grand on / the pleasant waters of the River Lee" as the 19th century ballad has it. (Who but Francis Mahony aka "Father Prout" would have dared rhyme Moscow with kiosk-o?) St Anne's bells are hung "dead" and rung by an Ellacombe apparatus. The most sonorous peel of bells is from change-ringing, which rotates them through 360°, but this demands skill and is sometimes impractical to build. It also incites scandalous behaviour, according to the Rev Henry Thomas Ellacombe of Gloucestershire, who in 1821 devised a mechanism whereby hammers struck stationary bells as resolutely as they would strike down temptation to sin. St Anne's is one of the two dozen churches in Britain and Ireland that still have functioning apparatus, and visitors can ding the bells from the tower first floor. There are 132 steps to the tower balcony, with a narrow squeeze as you clamber through the belfry, hoping that the group below doesn't choose that moment to start chiming. Church free, tower adult €5, child €2, conc €4.
- Butter Museum, O’Connell Square, Shandon T23 H004 (at foot of St Anne's), ☏ +353 21 430 0600, info@thebuttermuseum.com. Oct-May: W–Sa 10AM-4PM, Su 11AM–4PM; Jun-Sep: M–Sa 10AM-4PM, Su 11AM–4PM. This museum explores Ireland's long history of butter-making. 1000-year-old bog butter, anyone? Adult €5, students & seniors €4, child €2.
- 6 Cathedral of St Mary and St Anne, Roman St T23 NX76, ☏ +353 21 430 4325. M-Th 8:30AM-4:30PM, F 8:30AM-3:30PM. This is the neo-Gothic Roman Catholic cathedral, opened in 1808.
- 7 Holy Trinity Church, Father Mathew Quay T12 EF63, ☏ +353 21 427 0827. This Roman Catholic church is a stonking great neo-Gothic affair built in fits and starts 1830-1890. (No jokes about workmen's leisurely lunch breaks please, the famine years were the problem.) There's an active Capuchin Friary attached. The church is dedicated to Father Theobald Mathew (1790-1856) who founded the temperance movement in Ireland, but fell into bad odour on a trip to the USA for his weasel equivocations on abolition of slavery.
- 8 Cork City Gaol, Convent Avenue, Sunday’s Well T23 VX25 (1 km west of centre), ☏ +353 21 430 5022, info@corkcitygaol.com. Mar-Oct: daily 10AM-5PM; Nov-Feb: F-M 10AM-4PM. Fascinating jail museum. It was opened in 1924 to hold male and female prisoners of the city, while those whose crime was committed outside the city were held at the county jail across the river, now the UCC campus. In 1878 the prisons were segregated: City Gaol became the women's prison and all the men were marched away to the county jail, while all county women were marched here. In 1919 Countess Markiewicz was held here for making a seditious speech; after Irish independence it held anti-treaty Republicans. In 1923 there was a mass escape, thereafter the gaol closed. In 1927 it became a radio station and part of the museum displays this. Adult €10, conc €8.50, child €6.
- 9 Cork Public Museum, Fitzgerald's Park, Mardyke T12 V0AA, ☏ +353 21 427 0679. Tu-F 10AM-4PM, Sa 11AM-4PM. Wide-ranging museum depicts the city's history from prehistoric to modern times. There's a good section on Michael Collins and the anti-Treaty Cork Brigades of the Irish civil war. Free.
- Fitzgerald's Park outside the museum is a genteel municipal space on the riverside, laid out in 1902 after Cork hosted an international trade exhibition here. Your only excitement will be from crossing the pedestrian "Shaky Bridge" to Sunday's Well Rd on the north bank.
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Just what the doctor ordered = false
George Boole (1815-1864) from Lincoln became the first Professor of Mathematics at Queens College Cork, now UCC. He's best known for his formulation of logic into binary algebra; thus true and false = false, true or false = true. These could be represented by on-off switches or levers; see Banbridge for how they directed the Irish linen looms. Then the switches became electronic and ever faster and smaller, powering computers. From humble admin tasks these logic-mills evolved to advanced decision-support, e.g., in medicine and therapeutics. But this was too late for Boole, who got caught in a downpour but delivered his lecture in soaking clothes, a chill set in, then pneumonia. His wife thought to treat this by soaking him in cold water, and that was the end of him. |
- 10 The Glucksman, University College T12 V1WH, ☏ +353 21 490 1844. M-Sa 11AM-5PM, Su 2-5PM. Gallery in stylish modern building opened 2006 within the university, with rotating art exhibitions. Its sponsor Lewis Glucksman (1925-2006) had been CEO of Lehman Brothers, remember them? He lived in Cobh from 1999 and was a major benefactor of cultural initiatives. Donation €5.
- 11 University College Cork (UCC) main campus is beyond the Glucksman on Western Rd. You can stroll around (see college map) and take in the variety of architecture, from the modern extension of the Boole Library to the Honan Chapel, completed in 1917 but got up in Celtic-Gothic style to look much older.
- 12 Lough park is 1 km south of city centre. The Lough, which gives its name to the neighbourhood, is a small freshwater lake fed by springs bubbling out of the limestone; it's barely 1 metre deep. The Lough is ringed by housing but is a wildlife reserve: waterfowl nest on the wooded island at the south end. The lough shore has a firm track of 1.1 km, popular with joggers and dog-walkers. There are carp, eels, tench and other freshwater fish, and coarse angling is permitted by catch and release. There's a cafe by the north end and a bar with meals at the south end.
Further out
[edit]- 13 Blackrock Castle Observatory, Castle Rd, Blackrock T12 YW52 (Bus 202 towards Mahon), ☏ +353 21 432 6120, info@bco.ie. W-Su 10AM-4PM. If pirates ever try to attack Cork from the moon, this place will give ample warning. It was first built in 1582 to defend the harbour and its shipping, but twice burnt down without the help of any marauders. The present castle is a cod-medieval structure of 1828; in 2007 it became an astronomy museum and observatory. Adult €7, conc or child €5.
- 14 Fota Wildlife Park, Fota Island T45 CD93 (take commuter train), ☏ +353 21 481 2678. Daily 9:30AM-6PM. Large park with dozens of animal and bird species, and Arboretum with many rare trees and plants. Adult €19.90, child €13.70, conc €14.90, cheaper online.
- 15 Barryscourt Castle, Carrigtwohill T45 K093 (Junction 4 of N25), ☏ +353 21 488 2218. Daily 8AM-6PM. Impressive tower house from 14th century, but mostly 15th and 16th; it fell derelict but was restored in the 1990s. The interior is again closed for restoration but you can see the attractive herb and knot gardens, and an orchard with examples of every type of Irish Apple Tree. Garden free.
- 16 Midleton is a town 16 km west of Cork along the road to Youghal. Its main attraction is the Old Midleton Distillery or "Jameson Experience", with a huge waterwheel and pot still, which produced Jameson whiskey from 1825. It's open for tours daily 10:30AM-5PM (€26 in 2023). In 1975 production transferred to the new distillery alongside; the business is now owned by Pernod Ricard. There are tour buses from Cork to the distillery, and the railway re-opened in 2009, so Midleton has grown into a large commuter town. The Farmer's Market is held on Saturday 9AM-1AM.
- 17 Ballincollig is a small village 5 km west of Cork which throughout the 19th century held a large military-industrial complex, the Royal Gunpowder Mills. These are nowadays just bosky ruins 500 m north of the village in the riverbank park. 500 m south of the village is the Norman stump of Ballincollig Castle, which is on private land.
- 18 Kilcrea Friary is the substantial ruin of a 15th-century Franciscan abbey. It came under repeated attack by the English while the Friars holed up in Kilcrea Castle 500 m west: the castle ruin is on a farm with no public access.
- Cobh and Crosshaven are small ports in Cork Harbour, see separate pages.
Do
[edit]- Read Cork Independent, The Echo, The Cork, The Corkman or Cork Beo.
- Cork City Tours operate a hop-on hop-off bus tour of the city, as well as excursions out to the Jameson Distillery, Mizen Head, and Ring of Kerry. They run May-Sep, and in 2023 the city tour is €18 adult, €16 conc, €7 child.
- Cork Arts Theatre is on Carroll's Quay, Box Office +353 21 450 5624.
- Crane Lane Theatre on the block between South Mall and Oliver Plunkett St is a live music venue and bar open to 2AM nightly.
- Gate Cinema is top of North Main Street by the bridge.
- Triskel Arts Centre on Tobin Street has a gallery, live music, theatre and a cinema.
- Cyprus Avenue is a live music venue on Caroline Street.
- 1 Rebel City Tour, ☏ +353 83 363 6990, info@rebelcitytour.com. Daily 9AM-5PM. Led by Dara, a knowledgeable and passionate local storyteller, you‘ll embark on a journey through the city‘s historic neighborhoods, quaint alleyways, and lively streets. Varies.
Sports
[edit]
- Gaelic games at 1 Páirc Ui Chaoimh, Ballintemple (2 km east of centre), ☏ +353 21 201 9200. This 45,000 capacity stadium hosts the biggest games. It's the home ground of Cork GAA, the county team, playing Gaelic football and hurling. They have a secondary home stadium at Páirc Uí Rinn, capacity 16,440, and club games are usually played at this and similar-sized grounds: Nemo Rangers for Gaelic football, Blackrock for hurling, St Finbarr's play both. The fixture list is posted by the national GAA.
- Football: 2 Cork City FC, St Anne's Park, Turners Cross T12 Y7D6. "The Rebel Army" were relegated in 2023 but promoted straight back in 2024, so they again play soccer in the League of Ireland Premier Division, the Republic's to tier. The playing season is Feb-Nov and matches are usually on Friday evenings. Turner's Cross Stadium (capacity 7485) is 1.5 km south of city centre. Take a bus to Evergreen Road or walk; you may not walk on South Link Road.
- Rugby Union, 15-a-side: Munster Rugby are one of the four Irish professional teams playing in the United Rugby Championship (formerly Pro14), the European (predominantly Celtic) league. Their usual home ground is in Limerick, but some home games are at Musgrave Park, capacity 8000 (also known as Irish Independent Park). Junior internationals are also held here. It's off Pearse Rd a mile south of the centre.
- Go to the races but you need to set off early: Cork Racecourse is at Mallow 35 km north.
Events
[edit]- St Patrick's Day on 17 March is a big event here, with streets closed off for the parade.
- Cork Midsummer Festival features theatre, music, dance, painting, and photograph in mid-June.
- Ironman Triathlon is held between Youghal and Cork in late August. The event offers 40 qualifying slots for the world championships in Hawaii.
- Cork Jazz Festival is held in late October.
- Cork International Film Festival is held in November.
- 2024 Four Nations - Masters hockey, Garryduff Sports Centre, Garryduff. 31 May-2 June. 2024 Four Nations Women's hockey competition. Over 35, Over 40 and Over 45's - Ireland, Scotland, England and Wales teams.
Buy
[edit]- Shopping areas are along St Patrick's Street, Oliver Plunkett Street, Paul Street and North Main Street.
- 1 English Market, Grand Parade, South Mall (main entrances on Grand Parade and Princes St, side entry from Plunkett and Patrick streets). M-Sa 8AM-6PM. This covered market was created in 1788 by the Protestant or English city rulers; in 1840 the Irish Catholics took over and set up Irish Market at St Peters. It's primarily a fresh-food market: several stalls do sandwiches and other takeaways, and Farmgate Cafe is open to 4PM.
- Farmers' Markets are held at Blackrock (Su 10AM-2PM), Mahon Point (Th 10AM-2PM), Douglas (Sa 10AM-2PM) and Midleton (Sa 9AM-1PM).
Eat
[edit]Eating places and bars are everywhere, but especially on MacCurtain Street, Washington Street and Oliver Plunkett Street.
Budget
[edit]- 1 Dukes Coffee Company, 4 Carey's Lane T12 YY89, ☏ +353 21 490 5877. M-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su 10AM-4PM. Big portions, slick service.
- My Goodness, Unit 2, English Market, Princes St T12 W9XP (in Market Hall). Vegan cafe.
- Kellys Restaurant, 64 Oliver Plunkett St T12 K5FH (upstairs, opposite English Market), ☏ +353 21 427 3375. Tu-Su 12:30-5PM. Inexpensive trad fare.
- O'Flynns Gourmet Sausage Co, 14 Winthrop St T12 A367 (corner of Plunkett St), ☏ +353 21 427 4422. M-Th 9:30AM-5PM, F Sa 9:30AM-7PM, Su 11AM-5PM. Hotdogs, sit in or take away. They also have a stall within English Market.
- 2 Amigo's, 7 Washington St T12 Y75F. M W-F noon-9PM, Sa noon-11:30PM, Su 1-8PM. Burritos and kebabs.
- 3 Tony's Bistro, 69 North Main St T12 H61W, ☏ +353 21 427 0848. Daily 8:30AM-5PM. Irish breakfast and similar trad fare.
Mid-range
[edit]- 4 Jacques Restaurant, 23 Oliver Plunkett St T12 A5D7, ☏ +353 21 427 7387, info@jacquesrestaurant.ie. Tu-Sa 5-9:30PM. A long-established Irish restaurant.
- 5 Clancys, 15 Princes St T12 V6FH, ☏ +353 21 234 4455, info@clancyscork.ie. M-Sa 9AM-11PM, Su 10AM-11PM. Trad Irish pub but nowadays primarily a restaurant.
- 6 Market Lane, 5 Oliver Plunkett St T12 T959, ☏ +353 21 427 4710, info@marketlane.ie. Daily noon-9:30PM. Bustling two-storey Irish restaurant and bar near English Market gets great reviews for its food and has a GF selection.
- 7 Liberty Grill, 32 Washington St T12 T880, ☏ +353 21 427 1049. F Sa 9:30AM–2:30PM & 5-8PM, Th Su 9:30AM–2:30PM. New England style bistro with good all-day brunch, licensed.
- 8 Café Gusto, The Boardwalk, Lapps Quay T12 WY42, ☏ +353 21 422 4099. M–F 7AM-3PM. Good for a quick bite and coffee.
- Another Cafe Gusto is at 3 Washington St.
- 9 East Village Hotel, East Village, Douglas T12 Y688 (next to Douglas shopping court), ☏ +353 21 436 7000. M–Th 6-9PM, F 5-10PM, Sa 1-10PM, Su 1-9PM. It's a mid-range hotel but most reviews rate it for food and drink.
- 10 Jacobs on the Mall, 30 South Mall T12 NY22, ☏ +353 21 425 1530, info@jacobsonthemall.com. Tu–Sa 5-10PM. Modern gourmet cuisine, lots of veggie choice, the set menu is especially good value.
- 11 Luigi Malones, 1 Emmet Place T12 VF43 (next to Opera House), ☏ +353 21 427 8877. M-Th noon-8PM, F Sa noon-9PM Su 1-8PM. Long-established popular Italian place with Art Deco interior.
- Nash 19, 19 Princes St T12 W718 (next to Clancy's off Oliver Plunkett St), ☏ +353 21 427 0880. Tu–Sa 9AM-4PM. Bright modern cafe, good choice for lunch.
- 12 Old Town Whiskey Bar at Bodega, 44 Cornmarket St T12 W27H, ☏ +353 51 427 3756, info@oldtownwhiskeybar.com. Daily 10AM–20:00. Cafe/bar in a nicely refurbished industrial building with a good all-day brunch. The bar has a formidable selection of whiskey and at weekends they have a late-night club.
- 13 Quay Co-op, 24 Sullivans Quay T12 X867, ☏ +353 21 431 7026. M-Sa 8AM-6PM. Vegetarian restaurant (lots of vegan and GF choice) within a health food store.
- 14 Scoozi, 2-5 Winthrop Lane T12 DE6W (off Winthrop St), ☏ +353 21 427 5077, info@scoozis.ie. M-W 9AM-8PM, Th-Sa 9AM-9PM, Su 1-8PM. Lively family-oriented place with standard Italian fare.
- Farmgate Café, English Market, Princes Street T12 NC8Y (within Market Hall), ☏ +353 21 427 8134, info@farmgatecafe.ie. Tu-Sa 9AM-4PM. Erratic quality, pricey for what you get.
- 15 Barry's of Douglas, Douglas East T12 YV08, ☏ +353 21 489 1370. M-Th 9:30AM-11:30PM, F Sa 9:30AM-12:30AM, Su noon-11PM. Slick modern place, value for money food and drink.
Splurge
[edit]- 16 Café Paradiso, 16 Lancaster Quay T12 FKE1, ☏ +353 21 427 7939, info@cafeparadiso.ie. Tu-Sa 5:30-9PM. This upscale creative vegetarian restaurant gets rave reviews even from committed carnivores.
- Greenes Restaurant, 48 MacCurtain Street T23 F6EK (opposite Metropole Hotel), ☏ +353 21 455 2279, info@greenesrestaurant.com. W-F 5:30-9:15PM; Sa Su 12:30-2PM, 5:30-9:15PM. Upscale innovative Med cuisine, the tasting menu is especially good.
Drink
[edit]- Useful to know: "langered" is the Cork term for being drunk. A "langer" is an idiot, asshole or drunk.
- An Bróg, 74 Oliver Plunkett St T12 FP28 (by English Market), ☏ +353 21 427 0074, info@anbrog.com. M-F 4PM-2AM, Sa Su 2PM-2AM. Lively bar, popular with students. Bróg means shoe but one woozy regular is beginning to suspect they don't sell shoes.
- 1 An Spailpín Fánach, 29 South Main St T12 DYX9, ☏ +353 21 427 7949. M Tu 5-11:30PM, W-Su 7-11:30PM. It's Irish for "the migrant labourer" and has trad music most nights and a great atmosphere.
- The Oval, 25 South Main St T12 Y15D (by An Spailpín Fánach), ☏ +353 21 427 8952. Su-Th 4-11:30PM, F Sa 4PM-12:30AM. Great pub with trad decor and welcoming staff, quiet music that you don't have to yell over.
- The Pav, 13 Carey's Lane (corner with St Patrick's St), ☏ +353 21 229 6785. M-W 2-11:30PM, Th-Su 2PM-2:30AM. Pav is a two-level bar in a converted cinema. The downstairs Intermission Bar is cosy, the upstairs Pavilion is arty.
- 2 The Bierhaus, 28 Popes Quay T23 AE79 (at Shandon footbridge), ☏ +353 21 455 1648, bierhausbookings@gmail.com. M–Th 3-11:30PM, F 3PM-12:30AM, Sa 1PM–12:30AM, Su 1-11PM. Great selection of beers, new offerings monthly.
- Cask, 48 MacCurtain St T23 F104 (opposite Metropole Hotel), ☏ +353 21 450 0913, info@caskcork.com. Su-Th 4-11:30PM, F Sa 2PM-12:30AM. Cocktails and tapas, pricey but good quality.
- 3 Chambers, 26 Washington St T12 KC52, ☏ +353 86 703 7018, info@chambersbar.ie. Th-Sa 5PM-2AM, Su 2PM-2AM. LGBT bar and dance club. Gay Bingo? Hey, whatever.
- 4 Costigan's Pub, 11 Washington St T12 N768, ☏ +353 21 427 3350, costiganspubcork@gmail.com. M-Th 4-11:30PM, F 2PM-12:30AM, Sa Su 12:30-11:30PM. Lively pub, gets busy but there's enough room to watch TV sport or avoid it. Big selection of whiskey and other spirits.
- Edison (formerly Long Island Bar), 11 Washington St T12 YK63 (next to Amigos), ☏ +353 21 427 3252, edisonbeersandspirits@gmail.com. W 6-11PM, Th-Su 5-11PM. Cocktail bar with an extensive menu and loads of variety. Try the whiskey toddy on a drear winter night.
- 5 Franciscan Well Bar & Brewery (Fran Well Bar), 14B North Mall T23 P264, ☏ +353 21 439 3434, franciscanwellbrewery@gmail.com. M-F 4-11:30PM, Sa 1PM-midnight, Su 1-11PM. Pub with large beer garden on north river bank, serving pizza from Pompeii Pizzeria next door. Brews its own range of beers and has a fine section of foreign bottled beers.
- Rising Sons Brewery is on Cornmarket opposite Tesco. The bar is open Su-Th noon-11:30PM, F Sa noon-12:30AM and serves food.
- The Poor Relation is on Parnell Place 100 m south of the bus station. They serve Rising Sons ales and are open M-Th 10:30AM-11PM, F Sa 10:30AM-12:30Am, Su noon-11:30PM.
- Arthur Mayne's Pharmacy, 7 Pembroke St T12 VR62 (flanking Imperial Hotel), ☏ +353 21 427 9449. Daily 10AM-2AM. Atmospheric wine bar in a Victorian apothecary shop.
- 6 The Hi-B Bar, 108 Oliver Plunkett St T12 E6CX, ☏ +353 21 427 2758. M-Th 3-11:30PM, F Sa 2PM-12:30AM, Su 5-11PM. Small quirky bar up old creaking stairs, named for the former Hibernian Hotel. It often has live music, but no TV and definitely no mobile phones. Its legendary grumpy owner died in 2019 but his successors have retained the ambience.
- Long Valley Bar, 10 Winthrop St T12 NW64 (off Plunkett St), ☏ +353 21 427 2144. Daily 10AM–12:30AM. Busy central pub does good filling sandwiches.
- Mutton Lane Inn, Mutton Lane, 3 St Patrick's St T12 RV07 (by English Market), ☏ +353 21 427 3471. M-Th 10:30AM-11:30PM, F Sa 10:30AM-12:30AM, Su 9AM-11PM. Dark and comfortable with candle lit tables and trad sessions on Monday night, and no TV. Nice selection of foreign and local beers.
- 7 Pigalle, 111 Barrack St T12 FK75, ☏ +353 21 432 3214, pigalle.barrys111@gmail.com. W–Sa 6-11:30PM. French cafe-bar with great selection of French wines and continental beers. They still do good cocktails but now major on their restaurant offerings; on warm nights, eat in the courtyard.
- Tom Barry's, 113 Barrack St T21 RT44 (next to Pigalle). Su-Th 4-11:30PM, F Sa 4PM-12:30AM. Trad Irish pub with great pizza.
- 8 Sin é, 8 Coburg St T23 KF5N, ☏ +353 21 450 2266. Su–Th 12:30–11:30PM, F Sa 12:30PM–12:30AM. Trad pub since 1889, when there was a funeral parlour next door; Sin é means "that's it." In the 20th century the pub was the queue for the barbers shop upstairs. It's kept its atmosphere and has live trad music every night. No food served, but you can bring in cold bites, no hot food allowed.
- 9 Thomond Bar, 2 Marlboro St T12 NF84, ☏ +353 21 427 9747, thomondbarcork@gmail.com. M-Sa 10:30AM-11:30PM, Su 12:30-11PM. Great pub for TV sports, food served till late.
Sleep
[edit]Summer accommodation
[edit]Cork is a University City, so students have time-off during the summer. These beds offer great value, location and convenience to the summer visitor.
- Summer Beds. Summer Beds or Summer Accommodation offers self-catered, centrally located and great value for money lodging in the city. Wi-Fi. Self-catered. TV. Washing facilities.
Budget
[edit]- 1 Bru Hostel, 57 MacCurtain St T23 CD00, ☏ +353 21 455 9667, info@bruhostel.com. Hostel with bar, open all year. Live music and a lively pub most nights, so not for light sleepers. Prices include breakfast, wi-fi internet, bike and luggage storage. Dorm bed €35.
- Kinlay House, Bob and Joan's Walk T23 CK10 (east side of Shandon Bells), ☏ +353 21 450 8966. Small hostel by Shandon, nowadays housing Ukrainian refugees.
- Sheila's Hostel, 4 Belgrave Place, Wellington Road T23 XF95 (facing Auburn House, below), ☏ +353 21 450 5562. Clean well-run hostel open all year with free wi-fi. Reception is 24 / 7. Dorm from €28, double room €80.
- Camping: the closest campsite is near Blarney 8 km northwest and open Apr-Oct.
Mid-range
[edit]- 2 Auburn House, Garfield Terrace, Wellington Rd T23 FD27, ☏ +353 21 450 8555, auburnguesthousecork@gmail.com. A smart welcoming B&B near the railway station. B&B double €110.
- 3 Clayton Hotel Silver Springs, Tivoli T23 E244 (N8 two km east of city), ☏ +353 21 450 7533. Good mid-range place with leisure centre and large conferencing and banquet facilities, free parking. Assistance dogs only. B&B double €110.
- 4 Hotel Isaacs, 48 MacCurtain St T23 F6EK, ☏ +353 21 450 0011, info@hotelisaacscork.com. Excellent stylish hotel, with quality beyond its price range. B&B double €110.
- 5 Leonardo Hotel (formerly Jury's Inn), Andersen's Quay T12 DCR9, ☏ +353 21 494 3000, jurysinncork@jurysinns.com. Reliable central 3-star chain hotel, close to bus and railway stations. The 133 rooms have wifi and satellite TV. There is also a bar and restaurant. Charges for the small hotel car park. B&B double €130.
- 6 Maldron Hotel Shandon Cork City, John Redmond St T23 A9TF, ☏ +353 21 452 9200. Clean well-run chain hotel north of river. With leisure centre and pool. B&B double €190.
- 7 Metropole Hotel, MacCurtain St T23 PX44, ☏ +353 21 464 3700, info@themetropolehotel.ie. Welcoming helpful central hotel. 112 modern rooms with free wi-fi. No hotel parking. B&B double €150.
- 8 Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa, Ditchley House, Little Island T45 WF53 (jcn 2 of N25), ☏ +353 21 429 7000, info.cork@radissonblu.com. Modern hotel on a retail park east of city, gets mostly good reviews for service, comfort and food. B&B double €130.
- 9 Rochestown Park Hotel, Rochestown Road, Douglas T12 AKC8 (5 km east of centre), ☏ +353 21 489 0800. Smart midrange place at southeast edge of city. B&B double €120.
- 10 Travelodge Cork Airport (2 km north of airport), Kinsale Road Roundabout, Frankfield Rd T12 E2XY, ☏ +353 21 431 0722, fax: +353 21 431 0723, cork@travelodge.ie. Reliable chain hotel. On drab commercial estate with no eating places beyond hotel. Pets accepted. Free parking during stay. No availability in 2020.
- Airport: Cork International Hotel, Cork Airport Business Park T12 H516 (200 m from terminal), ☏ +353 21 454 9800, info@corkinternationalhotel.com. Great scores for comfort and service, a short walk to terminal. B&B double €150.
Splurge
[edit]- 11 Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Midleton P25 Y070 (On road to Youghal), ☏ +353 21 465 2531. It is a long way out but worth a splurge. A top-rank country hotel in a Georgian mansion with outstanding restaurant. B&B double €300.
- 12 Clayton Hotel Cork City (formerly Clarion), Lapps Quay T12 RD6E, ☏ +353 21 422 4900, info@claytonhotelcorkcity.com. Slick modern hotel, very central. B&B double €190.
- 13 Fota Island Resort, Fota Island T45 HX62 (From N25 jcn 3 follow R624 south), ☏ +353 21 488 3700, reservations@fotaisland.ie. Plush but family-friendly hotel with 123 en-suite rooms, 8 suites, several restaurants and a spa. It's set amidst 3 golf courses and extensive wooded parklands; gets great reviews. Fota Island is a peninsula in the estuary reached by public road. B&B double €190.
- 14 Hayfield Manor, Perrott Avenue, College Rd T12 HT97, ☏ +353 21 484 5900. Charming upscale hotel hidden away in grounds behind UCC campus, great comfort and service. B&B double €250.
- 15 Imperial Hotel Cork, 76 South Mall T12 A2YT, ☏ +353 21 427 4040, reservations@imperialhotelcork.ie. This grand 200-year-old hotel earns great reviews for comfort and service. B&B double €180.
- 16 Kingsley Hotel, Carrigrohane Rd T12 P680 (opposite County Hall and Library), ☏ +353 21 480 0500. Pleasant hotel on the riverbank, with spa, fitness club and pool. B&B double €180.
- 17 Maryborough Hotel & Spa, Maryborough Hill, Douglas T12 XR12, ☏ +353 21 436 5555. Upscale hotel in 18th-century mansion at the leafy south-east edge of city, highly rated for comfort and service. With Bellini restaurant, fitness centre and spa. B&B double €200.
Stay safe
[edit]Cork is mostly safe, but show usual caution around rowdy drunks.
Connect
[edit]As of March 2023, Cork and its approach roads have 5G from all Irish carriers.
Go next
[edit]- Blarney 8 km northwest has the castle, gardens and of course the Blarney Stone — it's very touristy.
- Cobh, reached by local train, was the port for Cork in the age of the great ocean liners. It's an agreeable colourful place often visited by cruise ships.
- Crosshaven is a pleasant seaside town with clean beaches and clifftop walks.
- Kinsale is an attractive seaside town with water sports and the impressive Charles Fort.
- Further west beyond Clonakilty the coastline becomes rugged, with stony hills surrounding small towns such as Skibbereen and Bantry.
- Lismore in County Waterford has a fine castle, gardens and cathedral, and several mansions and gardens in the countryside around.
- Cahir in County Tipperary has a castle on a river island and the playful Swiss Cottage.
- Killarney in County Kerry has the Killarney lakes, castle and wildlife park.