Bundi
Bundi, in eastern Rajasthan, rates highly in terms of attractions; the city is famous for the Taragarh fort which towers over the city, and its more than 50 sunken step-wells used to draw clean water before the modern water mains were installed.
Understand
The population of Bundi was approximately 103,000 in 2011. It was named after a Meena Chieftain Bunda, also notable the miniature paintings from the "Bundi School".
The city attracts a number of tourists in season and a multitude of guesthouses have sprung up near to the fort, ignore the hustlers in the street who try to lead you around or offer you services- you will be charged a higher rate which will go into the hustlers pocket.
The locals genuinely are a friendly lot however, and you can have a tea and make friends with almost everyone - even the shopkeepers and hustlers if you show some genuine interest.
Famous visitors to Bundi include Rudyard Kipling (writer of The Jungle Book), Rabindra Nath Tagore, Virginia Fass, and film maker Satyajit Ray.
Get in
By plane
By car
Bundi is well connected by road to cities such as Delhi (475 km), Jaipur (215 km), Udaipur (270 km), Chittorgarh (150 km), Ajmer (175 km), Kota (40 km), Sawai Madhopur/Ranthambore (120 km), and Agra (400 km).
By bus
Buses operate between Bundi and the major cities in Rajasthan, most leave from the old bus station in the south/east. For long distances, the train is recommended as it is faster and more comfortable. Buses operate regularly between Bundi and Kota (₹40), which has more train connections than Bundi.
By train
Direct trains are available between Bundi and Delhi (8 hours overnight, ₹315-1,915), Sawai Madhopur (2.5 hours, ₹170-1,230), Udaipur (5½ hours, ₹210-1,230), Chittorgarh (2½ hours, ₹170-1,230), and Kota (1 hour, ₹140-690).
Get around
By foot
Most of Bundi is very accessible by walking.
By auto-rickshaw or tuk-tuk
The only mode of public transportation is the auto rickshaw. Auto rickshaw charges are ₹30-50 within city and ₹100 to the railway station.
By bicycle or motorbike
Bicycle and motorbike (₹300/day) rental is available.
See
Step wells
Step wells, or baori in Hindi, were the only method of obtaining and storing water in this part of India. While there are over 50 step wells that rise and fall depending on the water table. Most of the wells have fallen into disrepair and some are probably not worth visiting, but are free to enter (closest two by the azar park market). the Rani Ki Ji Baori (Queen's Step Well) is in good condition and a must-see.
- Rani Ki Ji Baori (Queen's Step Well). The most famous step well in Bundi, it was built in 1699 by the spurned queen. It is 46 metres deep and includes 200 steps. ₹200 foreigners.
- Dabhai Kund. The largest in Bundi. Though slightly overgrown, it is well worth a visit for the spectacular carvings on the numerous steps leading down to the water level.
- Nagar Saga Kund (Janana Sagar and Ganga Sagar). Constructed between 1871 and 1875, these are 2 step wells that have been extensively refurbished.
Forts and palaces
- 1 Taragarh Fort. Built in the 16th century, this is one of the most famous forts in Rajasthan due to its intricate structures and a highly-regarded painting gallery.
- 2 Garh (Bundi) Palace and Chitrashala - Ummed Mahal. These adjacent structures are must-sees and include some of the most amazing paintings in India. It is a steep climb to get up to the palace, which needed protection from attacking elephants.
- 3 Sukh Mahal, On the southern tip of Lake Jait Sagal. A smaller palace built on a dam wall; Rudyard Kipling stayed here.
Memorial pavilions (Chhatri)
- Chaurasi Khambon ki Chhatri (84-Pillared Cenotaph) (Walk down Kota Rd 800m south of the tourist office. Turn west and walk another 80m). Constructed in the late 17th century by the maharaja as a memorial.
Lakes
- Lake Jait Sagar. Once famous for louts flowers, this lake is adjacent to s small garden and Shikar Burj, an area used by kings for hunting.
- 4 Lake Nawal Sagar. A large square-shaped artificial lake containing many small islands. A temple dedicated to Varuna, the vedic god of water, is half-submerged in the middle of the lake. The lake feeds the numerous step wells in the old city by creating an artificial water table.
- Lake Kanak Sagar, In the town of Dugari (A 67km drive northwest of Bundi). An extremely beautiful lake and town.
Do
Wildlife safaris
- Ramgarh Vishdhari Sanctuary, Bherupura Antri (<50km northeast of Bundi). A 307 km² park. Animals that live in the park include leopard, sambhar, wild boar, chinkara, sloth bear, indian wolf, hyena, jackal, and Fox. The best time to visit is between September and May. Safaris can be booked at several hotels, including Vrindawati, which is operated by the government. Entrance: ₹160 + safari costs.
Buy
- Shree Krishna Art Jewelry, Nahar ka Chouhta (a few blocks south of the Bundi Government Hospital), ☏ +91 96492 45667. A store where you can find local treasures such as antiques, artwork, old coins, etc.
- Yug Art, Near Surang Gate, ☏ +91 9928948433, info@yugart.com. Yug is a fine painter who captures the beauty of Rajasthan. Styles range from portraits to landscapes to comics.
- Bundi Cafe & Crafts, Haveli Braj Bhushanjee, toll-free: +91-9783355866. Best place to buy Bundi School Paintings.
Eat
In addition to the restaurants below, most hotels in Bundi have restaurants. For those on a budget you can usually get samosas from ₹5-7 on street stalls, bananas are only ₹20-40 a kilo in season.
- Kipling Cafe, On Lake Jait Sagar. Fruit ingredients are grown next to the restaurant.
- Lakha, Nahar ka Chouhta. A tiny place where you sit on cushions and the owner cooks you an amazing meal.
- Namaste Cafe, Fort & Palace Road, Nahar ka chohta, ☏ +91 96 36 932300. Soul food. Really nice ambience and service.
- 1 Ringo Starr Bundi Restaurant, Fort Street (On the main street), ☏ +91 98299 65517.
- 2 Tom and Jerry, Nahara Ka Chotta (Near surang gate), ☏ +91 80 58 369455. Western food, popular with tourists.
- 3 Haveli Braj Bhushanjee, below palace, toll-free: +91-9783355866, havelibb@gmail.com. Traditionally decorated Darikhana is being used as dining hall. One can enjoy best local vegetarian meals in traditional atmosphere. You can also have your meals on the terrace with magical view of illuminated palace and town.
Drink
- Sathi Lassi (on the way to the fort). Good, thick lassis.
- Krishna tea shop, watch the enigmatic owner prepare spice tea/coffee from scratch in a small shop decorated mostly by tourists, is expansive at ₹40, but worth it to say you've had a proper Massala Chai. Late in the evenings "special tea" may be available - probably why it's famous
Sleep
Budget
- 1 Bundi Haveli, 107, Balchand Parra (Near Nawal Sagar Lake), ☏ +91 99292 91552. The rooms are comfortable. Double: ₹1,150.
- 2 Daulat Niwas. Built in the early 1700s. The cheapest place to stay in Bundi - but only a few rooms are available. Single from ₹150, double from ₹300.
- Dev Niwas (God's Residence), Maaji Sahib Ki Haveli (Opposite Purani Kotwali, Sadar Bazar), ☏ +91 96491 77628, mail@devniwas.com. Built by Deva Dhabai in 1684. Very luxurious for a budget hotel. ₹1,200.
- Hadee Rani Guest House, Sadar Bazar, ☏ +91 747 2442903. Opened in 2006, the establishment is run by a friendly family. The food is good; so are the rooms. Restaurant: mains ₹50-200; thali ₹100-180.
- Haveli Braj Bhushanjee (Opposite the Ayurvedic Hospital), ☏ +91 747 244 2322, toll-free: +91 9783355866, havelibb@gmail.com. Haveli Braj Bhushanjee was built 200 years before and belongs to Bohara Braj Bhushanjee family, which gave Bundi as many as four Prime Ministers all in the 19th century. Haveli Braj Bhushanjee offers traditional architect by way of tibaries and courtyards which are painted in Bundi School Paintings, consisting of Raganies , court scene, hunting scenes. Extensive painted courtyards are worth visiting. Each and every surface of this haveli are nicely decorated with old photographs and antique collection. The Haveli offers 24 well appointed AC rooms with all modern amenities. All the rooms have been renovated in such a way that the atmosphere of the old architecture is not disturbed. The rooms have been traditionally decorated and few rooms have some of the finest Bundi School Painting (murals) one can see in this region. ₹2,000.
- 3 Kasera Heritage View (Opposite Haveli Braj Bhushan Ji), ☏ +91 747 244 7244, kaseraheritageview@yahoo.in. A beautiful haveli run by a family. ₹1,200.
- Mangalam Guest House and Indian Restaurant, Nahar Ka Chota (Opposite the Ayurvedic Hospital, Near Bundi Palace), ☏ +91 98295-44642, +91 98871-44642, +91 747-2442555, mangalam_bundi@yahoo.com. A nice homestay with good food in a well-kept haveli.
- R. N. Haveli Guest House (Behind Laxmi Nath Temple), ☏ +91 7475 120098. All-women run establishment. Good home style food (ask for the dal dhokla), decent rooms and a nice atmosphere.
- Rajmahal Guest House, Suraj Ji Ka Bad, Balchand Para, ☏ +91 89470 04590, contact@rajmahalguesthousebundi.com. Clean, friendly budget hotel run and owned by two young brothers. Double ₹300-400.
- Tarah Homestay and Guest House, Nahar Ka Choatta (Near Bundi Palace), ☏ +91 9602270491, tarahomestay@gmail.com. Nice cosy rooms overlooking the palace. Home atmosphere with tasty cooking. Rooftop has great views. Manager's name is Jitu.
- Vrindawati, Opposite Jait Sagar Lake, ☏ +91 8769167702. A 7-room basic hotel operated by the Rajasthani government. Single ₹500-1,100, double ₹700-1,300.
Mid-range
- 4 Hadoti Palace, Kota Road (Near Ranjit Talkies, Opposite the Collectorate and the bus stand), ☏ +91 747 244 3333. Very spacious rooms, swimming pool, on a noisy street. ₹3,650.
- Ishwari Niwas Heritage Resort, 1-Civil Lines, ☏ +91 747 244 2414. A 100-year-old haveli previously inhabited by Maharao Raja Ishwari Singh, the ruler of Bundi. Rooms are decorated with paintings in the Bundi art style. Single ₹4,000, double ₹4,500.
- 5 Ummaid Bagh Resort, Jait Sagar Road, ☏ +91 747 244-2397, +91 9414175111, fax: +91 747 244-7066, hadotiholidayresorts@yahoo.co.in. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. A camping site owned by the ruler of Bundi in the 18th century, it now provides accommodation in luxury tents. ₹3,500.
Go next
Bundi is well connected by road to cities such as Delhi (475 km), Jaipur (215 km), Udaipur (270 km), Chittorgarh (150 km), Ajmer (175 km), Kota (40 km), Sawai Madhopur/Ranthambore (120 km), and Agra (400 km).