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Lanvin

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For other uses, see Lanvin (name).
Lanvin Group
Company typeSubsidiary
IndustryFashion
Founded1889; 135 years ago (1889) in Paris, France
FounderJeanne Lanvin
Headquarters22 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré,
Paris
,
France
Area served
Worldwide
Key people
ProductsApparel, accessories, perfume, jewelry
ParentLanvin Group, a subsidiary of Fosun International[1]
Websitewww.lanvin.com
Footnotes / references
[2]

Lanvin (French: [lɑ̃vɛ̃]) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1889 by Jeanne Lanvin in Paris. It is the oldest French fashion house still in operation.[3] Since 2018, it has been a subsidiary of Shanghai-based Lanvin Group.

History

[edit]

Under Jeanne Lanvin (1889–1946)

[edit]

The House of Lanvin was created in 1889 with a millinery shop at 16 Rue Boissy-d’Anglas.[4][5] In 1893 she acquired 22 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré.[6][7] Created by Jeanne Lanvin, Lanvin was born in 1867 and had started a small millinery on Rue du Marche Saint Honore in 1885.[8]

In 1897 Lanvin gave birth to her daughter and only child, Marguerite.[5] Marguerite became Lanvin's muse and she started making clothing for Marguerite.[9] This eventually lead to the establishment of a children's clothing line in 1908.[5]

In 1909 Lanvin joined the Chambre Syndicat de la Couture, formally making her a couturier.[5] Along with this she expanded to womens clothing.[10]

In collaboration with Armand-Albert Rateau, an interior design store was opened in 1920.[5]

[edit]

The Lanvin logo was inspired by a photograph which depicts Lanvin and her daughter wearing matching outfits at a costume ball in 1907.[11] The logo was drawn in 1923 by French illustrator Paul Iribe.[12] As stated by Alber Elbaz, “It's not a lion, and it's not a horse. It's a mother and a daughter, I find the logo very emotional."[3]

Lanvin logo, featuring mother and daughter.

A dye factory opens in 1923 located in Nanterre, the factory was created to make exclusive colours for the company.[5]

Lanvin Parfums was created in 1924, however perfumes had been released before the creation of the company.[9][13] Mon Péché (My Sin) was released in 1925 formulated by Maria Zède (Madame Z) and André Fraysse.[13] Released first in France and then the USA (as My Sin) where it was a huge success.[13]

In 1926 men's, fur and lingerie lines were launched.[5]

The fragrance Arpège was later launched in 1927,[5] becoming Lanvin's signature scent.[4] The perfume was created to celebrate her daughter Marguerite's (by now a musician) thirtieth birthday with the title translating to arpeggio in English.[13] It later developed the tagline "Promise her anything, but give her Arpège".[13]

After Jeanne Lanvin (1946–present)

[edit]

When Lanvin died in 1946, her daughter Marguerite (by then known as Countess Marie-Blanche de Polignac) became director of Jeanne Lanvin and Lanvin Parfums.[5][14] Because Marguerite died childless in 1958 the ownership of the house went to a cousin, Yves Lanvin.[citation needed]

Lanvin Parfums merged with Charles of the Ritz in 1964.[15] The company was purchased by Squibb in 1971, however in 1978 Lanvin was separated from Charles of the Ritz and sold.[16] The Lanvin family kept its ownership of the fashion division.

In 1989 a controlling stake in Lanvin was sold to Midland Bank.[5][17] Along with this Claude Montana became the designer for the brands haute couture division.[18] His first collection was shown in January 1990.[17]

L'Oréal ownership (1990–2001)

[edit]

Orcofi (a holding company created by Henry Racamier) and L'Oréal purchased Lanvin in 1990, from Midland Bank and the Lanvin family.[19] L'Oréal increased its ownership of Lanvin in 1994 to a 66% stake, becoming the majority owners. Orofci continued to own a 34% stake in the brand.[20] In 1995 the stake became 94%.[21] Finally in 1996 L'Oréal purchased the entirety of the company.

Claude Montana left the house in 1992 and with this the haute couture line was shuttered.[22]

In 1995 Ocimar Versolato was appointed as designer for the women's ready-to-wear line, he showed his first collection in March 1996.[22] Versolato created an evening wear line under the Lanvin name for Bergdorf Goodman in 1996.[23]

Harmonie ownership (2001–2018)

[edit]

Lanvin was purchased by investor group Harmonie S.A. in August 2001.[24] The group was headed by Taiwanese media magnate Wang Shaw-lan.[25] However in 2003 Wang bought out the other investors of Harmonie S.A.[26]

Joix Corporatic became the ready-to-wear licence holder in Japan in 2005, with a retail value of €50 million.[27] In Japan, Lanvin clothes are a licence held by Itochu and in 2007 made around $280 million in sales from Lanvin-branded clothes, more than the house made.[26]

The perfume side of the company was sold in 2007 to Interparfums.[26]

On 4 December 2009, Lanvin opened their first US boutique in Bal Harbour, Florida.[28] The last American store had closed in the early 1990s.[citation needed]

In 2011, Lanvin sales reached €203 million.[24] In 2012, Lanvin Ralph Bartel increased his stake in the brand to 25 percent with a capital increase of 17.5 million euros.[29]

On 20 November 2013, Lanvin became the official tailor of Arsenal FC.[30]

On 28 October 2015, Lanvin announced that Elbaz was no longer at the company, due to differences of opinion with the shareholders. He was replaced by Bouchra Jarrar in March 2016. Jarrar left the following year and was succeeded by Olivier Lapidus, who departed on 23 March 2018, after only two seasons. Lapidus' successor was not named upon his exit.

Fosun International ownership (2018–present)

[edit]

Shanghai-based Fosun International became the owner of Lanvin in February 2018.[31] This was after they acquired the shares of Wang and Bartel (who owned 75 percent and 25 percent respectively).[32] After the acquisition Jean-Philippe Hecquet was appointed CEO, however after 18 months he stepped down in March 2020.[32]

Fosun Fashion Group (the subsidiary of Fosun which owns Lanvin) was renamed to Lanvin Group in October 2021.[1] The group was listed on the New York Stock Exchange in 2023.[33] The group was valued at USD$1.5 billion.[34]

Lanvin Lab was launched in 2023. Lanvin Lab collaborates with others for mini-collections the first was with rapper Future.[35]

On 11 June 2024, Vogue reported that Lanvin would reveal a new creative director in the coming days.[36] On the 27th of June it was announced that Peter Copping would become the brands artistic director, leading both the womenswear and menswear collections.[37]

Creative directors since 2001

[edit]

Alber Elbaz

[edit]

In October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed the Lanvin artistic director for all activities, including interiors. In 2006, he introduced new packaging for the fashion house, featuring a forget-me-not flower color, Lanvin's favorite shade which she purportedly saw in a Fra Angelico fresco (Suzy Menkes, 2005.). On 2 September 2010, it was announced by H&M that Lanvin would be their guest designer collaboration for the Winter 2010 collection.[24] The collection would be available to view beginning 4 November 2010 at HM.com. The collection would then be available to buy in 200 stores worldwide, on 20 November, with a first look sale the day before exclusively at the H&M store in Las Vegas.[38] The main face of the collection video was supermodel Natasha Poly.[39]

Lucas Ossendrijver

[edit]
Lucas Ossendrijver

In 2006, Lucas Ossendrijver was appointed the head of the men's line. The 2006 men's ready-to-wear collection was inspired by a Jean-Luc Godard film. He launched the first LANVIN urban sneakers, now with their patent leather toe caps, while presenting his AW 2006 collections; the shoes later became available in women’s collections. While enjoying a revitalized reputation in luxury, Lanvin received mainstream press in the United States in May 2009 when Michelle Obama was photographed wearing a popular line of Lanvin's sneakers made of suede with grosgrain ribbon laces and metallic pink toe caps while volunteering at a Washington, D.C. food bank. The sneaker shoes were reportedly retailed at $540.[40]

Bouchra Jarrar

[edit]

Bouchra Jarrar was appointed as Creative Director by Lanvin in March 2016.[41] In 2017, and with the preparation of only two ready-to-wear collections, Jarar stepped down from her position.[42] Upon her departure, Lanvin released the following statement: "Lanvin and Bouchra Jarrar have mutually decided to put an end to their collaboration".[43]

Bruno Sialelli

[edit]

French designer Bruno Sialelli was named the new creative director of Lanvin in January 2019.[44] Lanvin revealed in a statement that Sialelli's appointment marks a "pivotal new direction".[45] Sialelli had worked with Jonathan Anderson at Spanish brand Loewe prior to the appointment and was presumed to be facing "great pressure to turn things around for the Maison."[46] In April 2023 he left Lanvin after four years as creative director.[47]

Peter Copping

[edit]

In June 2024, Peter Copping was announced as the next artistic director of Lanvin, effective September 2024.[48] His previous work experience includes leading Balenciaga's return to Haute Couture, and creative director positions at Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci.[49]

Directors

[edit]
  • 1946–1950, Lanvin's daughter Marie-Blanche de Polignac, owner and director
  • 1942–1950, Marie-Blanche's cousin Jean Gaumont-Lanvin (Colombes, 1908–Versailles, 1988), director general
  • 1950–1955, Daniel Gorin (Paris, 1891–Paris, 1972), director general
  • 1959, Marie-Blanche's cousin Yves Lanvin, owner; Madame Yves Lanvin, president.
  • 1989–1990, Léon Bressler, chairperson
  • 1990–1993, Michel Pietrini, chairperson
  • 1993–1995, Loïc Armand, chairperson
  • 1995–2001, Gérald Asaria, chairperson
  • 2001–2004, Jacques Lévy, director general[50]
  • 2009–2013, Thierry Andretta[51]
  • 2013–2017, Michèle Huiban
  • 2017–2018, Nicolas Druz[52][53]
  • 2018–2020, Jean-Philippe Hecquet[54]
  • 2020, Joann Cheng (ad interim)[54]
  • 2021, Arnaud Bazin[55]
  • 2021–today, Siddhartha Shukla, CEO[56]

Designers

[edit]
  • 1946–1958: Marie-Blanche de Polignac, director general and designer
  • 1950–1963: Antonio del Castillo, women's collections
  • 1960–1980: Bernard Devaux, hats, scarves, haute couture; women's "Diffusions" line 1963–1980,
  • 1964–1984: Jules-François Crahay (Liège, 1917–1988), haute couture collections and "Boutique de Luxe"
  • 1972: Christian Benais, men's ready-to-wear collection
  • 1976–1991: Patrick Lavoix, men's ready-to-wear collections
  • 1981–1989: Maryll Lanvin, ready-to-wear, first haute couture in 1985 and women's "Boutique" collections
  • 1989–1990: Robert Nelissen, women's ready-to-wear collections
  • 1990–1992: Claude Montana, five haute-couture collections
  • 1990–1992: Eric Bergère, women's ready-to-wear collections
  • 1992–2001: Dominique Morlotti, women's and men's ready-to-wear collections
  • 1996–1998: Ocimar Versolato, women's ready-to-wear collections
  • 1998–2002: Cristina Ortiz, women's ready-to-wear collections
  • 2002–2015: Alber Elbaz, artistic director of all creative activities
  • 2003–2006: Martin Krutzki, designer of men's ready-to-wear
  • 2006–2018: Lucas Ossendrijver, men's collections
  • 2016–2017: Bouchra Jarrar, women's collections
  • 2017–2018: Olivier Lapidus, women's collections
  • 2018–2019: Estrella Archs, women's collections
  • 2019–2023: Bruno Sialelli, women's and men's collections[57]
  • 2024–present: Peter Copping, women's and men's collections[37]

Advertising

[edit]

For its advertising campaigns, Lanvin has been working with photographers like Craig McDean (2000)[58] and Steven Meisel (1999, 2012, 2022).[59][60]

References

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  1. ^ a b "China's Fosun Fashion Group rebrands as Lanvin". Reuters. Milan, Italy. October 11, 2021. Retrieved August 29, 2022.
  2. ^ "Jeanne Lanvin S.A.: Private Company Information - Businessweek". Investing.businessweek.com. Archived from the original on September 11, 2013. Retrieved 2013-09-16.
  3. ^ a b Graham, Mhairi (2014-02-28). "The 10 Codes of Lanvin". AnOther Magazine. Retrieved 2023-07-07.
  4. ^ a b Represa, Marta (2014-09-29). "Inside Jeanne Lanvin's Office". AnOther Magazine. Retrieved 2024-06-12.
  5. ^ a b c d e f g h i j Diderich, Joelle (2014-09-25). "Time Traveler: A History of Lanvin". WWD. Retrieved 2024-06-12.
  6. ^ Weinstock, Tish (2015-03-09). "All You Need To Know About Jeanne Lanvin". AnOther Magazine. Retrieved 2024-06-12.
  7. ^ "Jeanne Lanvin". Palais Galliera. Retrieved 2024-06-12.
  8. ^ McDowell, Colin (2015-08-30). "Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946)". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 2023-07-05.
  9. ^ a b "Jeanne Lanvin: from Marguerite to Couture | European Fashion Heritage Association". fashionheritage.eu. Retrieved 2024-06-12.
  10. ^ Simon (2024-02-10). "Jeanne-Marie Lanvin: A Legacy of Elegance and Innovation in French Haute Couture". Encyclopedia of Design. Retrieved 2024-07-23.
  11. ^ "The Heart-warming History of the Lanvin Logo". Harper's Bazaar UK. 2014-05-21. Retrieved 2024-06-12.
  12. ^ Tortora, Laura. "Lanvin: the history of the logo". Vogue Italia. Retrieved 2024-06-12.
  13. ^ a b c d e Weil, Jennifer (2014-09-25). "Lanvin's Storied Fragrance History". WWD. Retrieved 2024-06-12.
  14. ^ "Lanvin life". The Economist. Retrieved 2017-09-23.
  15. ^ "BIG SPACE TAKEN AT 730 FIFTH AVE.; Lanvin ‐ Charles of the Ritz to Consolidate Offices". The New York Times. 1964-07-07. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  16. ^ Ettorre, Barbara (1979-02-11). "3 Giant Acquirers Still Seek That Elusive Sweet Smell of Success". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  17. ^ a b Hochswender, Woody (1989-10-29). "IDEAS & TRENDS; In Paris Shows, Couture Meets Its Marketers". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  18. ^ Hyde, Nina (18 October 1989). "Montana's Move to Lanvin". The Washington Post.
  19. ^ Staff, W. W. D. (2001-07-13). "L'OREAL SELLS LANVIN, EXITS FASHION". WWD. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  20. ^ Staff, W. W. D. (1994-07-14). "L'OREAL BUYS CONTROL OF LANVIN". WWD. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  21. ^ Staff, W. W. D. (1995-10-12). "L'OREAL RAISES LANVIN STAKE". WWD. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  22. ^ a b Staff, W. W. D. (1995-07-06). "LANVIN SIGNS VERSOLATO AS DESIGNER FOR RTW". WWD. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  23. ^ Staff, W. W. D. (1996-08-08). "OCIMAR VERSOLATO TO DESIGN LANVIN EVENINGWEAR LINE". WWD. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  24. ^ a b c Pilling, David (February 17, 2012). "Lunch with the FT: Shaw-Lan Wang". Financial Times. Retrieved 10 July 2013.
  25. ^ Bergl, Skylar. "Lanvin Might Be Up For Sale". Complex. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  26. ^ a b c Astrid Wendlandt (29 September 2008), Fashion icon Lanvin in stake sale talks Reuters.
  27. ^ Chevalier, Michel (2012). Luxury Brand Management. Singapore: John Wiley & Sons. ISBN 978-1-118-17176-9.
  28. ^ "Lanvin Opens in Bal Harbour - Designer/Luxury - Retail". WWD.com. 2009-12-09. Retrieved 2013-09-16.
  29. ^ Miles Socha (22 January 2012), Ralph Bartel Raises Stake in Lanvin Women's Wear Daily.
  30. ^ "Arsenal welcomes Lanvin". Arsenal.com. 2013-11-20. Retrieved 2013-11-20.
  31. ^ Hancock, Tom (2019-12-09). "Fosun banks on Chinese shoppers to revive fashion fortunes". ft.com. Retrieved 2019-12-09.
  32. ^ a b Annachiara Biondi (8 December 2022), Fosun-owned Lanvin’s future hangs by a thread Financial Times.
  33. ^ "Lanvin Group plots expansion in US, China following SPAC listing". Vogue Business. 2022-12-15. Retrieved 2023-07-24.
  34. ^ McGregor, Kirsty (2022-03-23). "Lanvin Group to list on New York Stock Exchange". Drapers. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  35. ^ Guerrero, Melissa (2023-11-19). "Future Designs the First Lanvin Lab Collection". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  36. ^ Isaac-Goizé, Tina (2024-06-10). "Lanvin Resort 2025 Collection". Vogue. Retrieved 2024-06-13.
  37. ^ a b Guilbault, Laure (2024-06-27). "Lanvin taps Peter Copping as artistic director". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2024-06-27.
  38. ^ Drop whatever you are doing, Lanvin is coming to L.A. - The Daily Truffle - 8 November 2010 Archived December 22, 2010, at the Wayback Machine
  39. ^ "Lanvin for H&M - The Show (Promo 2011)". YouTube. 2010-11-02. Archived from the original on 2021-12-21. Retrieved 2013-09-16.
  40. ^ "First Lady Michelle Obama steps out in Lanvin sneakers and they're only $540!". NY Daily News. 2009-05-01. Archived from the original on 2010-08-15. Retrieved 2013-09-16.
  41. ^ "Lanvin Confirms Bouchra Jarrar As Artistic Director". Retrieved 2017-09-23.
  42. ^ Paton, Elizabeth (2017-07-06). "Bouchra Jarrar, Artistic Director at Lanvin, Is Out After 16 Months". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2017-09-23.
  43. ^ "Bouchra Jarrar Is Leaving Lanvin". Vogue. Retrieved 2017-09-23.
  44. ^ Newbold, Alice (21 January 2019). "Bruno Sialelli Named As Lanvin's New Creative Director". British Vogue. Retrieved 2019-02-01.
  45. ^ Friedman, Vanessa (2019-01-21). "A New Designer Is Named to Reinvent Lanvin". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2019-02-01.
  46. ^ "Loewe's Bruno Sialelli Becomes Lanvin New Creative Director". Humble & Rich Boutique. February 2019.
  47. ^ Guilbault, Laure (2023-04-14). "Bruno Sialelli exits Lanvin". Vogue Business. Retrieved 2024-05-17.
  48. ^ Socha, Miles (2024-06-27). "Lanvin Picks Peter Copping as Artistic Director". WWD. Retrieved 2024-10-23.
  49. ^ Guilbault, Laure (2024-06-27). "Lanvin Taps Peter Copping as Artistic Director". Vogue. Retrieved 2024-10-23.
  50. ^ "Jacques Levy". Les Echos. 8 July 2004. Retrieved 12 May 2023.
  51. ^ Ella Alexander (12 April 2013), Lanvin Managing Director Resigns British Vogue.
  52. ^ Joelle Diderich (6 November 2017), Lanvin’s New CEO Wants to Bolster Ties With Art Women's Wear Daily.
  53. ^ Katya Foreman (28 August 2018), Lanvin Appoints Jean-Philippe Hecquet CEO Women's Wear Daily.
  54. ^ a b Samantha Conti (17 March 2020), Lanvin CEO Jean-Philippe Hecquet to Exit French House Women's Wear Daily.
  55. ^ Mimosa Spencer (3 May 2021), EXCLUSIVE: Lanvin Deputy CEO Seeks Profitability by 2023 Women's Wear Daily.
  56. ^ "Lanvin se dote d'un nouveau directeur général et nomme Siddhartha Shukla". FashionUnited. 7 December 2021. Retrieved 12 May 2023.
  57. ^ Miles Socha (14 April 2023), EXCLUSIVE: Lanvin, Bruno Sialelli to Part Ways Women's Wear Daily.
  58. ^ Katherine Weisman (7 January 2000), Paris Accents The Power Of Product Women's Wear Daily.
  59. ^ Miles Socha (18 July 2012), Alber Elbaz Keeps It Real for Lanvin Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
  60. ^ Miles Socha (2 November 2022), Lanvin Portrays New Brand Image in Steven Meisel Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
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